Free crochet duck pattern: cute yellow amigurumi duck

If you've been hunting for a free crochet duck pattern that actually looks like a duck — round little body, bright orange beak, webbed feet, and that irresistible fluffy tuft on top — this yellow duckling is the one. He sits up on his own, waddles nowhere (thankfully), and those big glossy eyes make him look like he's waiting for a bath-time adventure. Best of all, the whole thing is worked in simple single crochet spirals, so if you can make a magic ring, you can make this duck.

Why you'll love this free crochet duck pattern

Most free duck patterns fall into two traps: they're either so simplified the duck looks like a yellow potato with a beak glued on, or so fiddly you spend more time wrestling with assembly than crocheting. This pattern was designed to land in the sweet spot. The head and body are classic amigurumi spheres with clean, standard increase math, so the shaping is smooth and predictable. The beak is a separate flattened oval piece, which is the secret behind that cute, dimensional duck face — a flat embroidered beak never photographs as well as a real raised one does.

It's also a genuinely stash-friendly project. You need less than half a skein of yellow worsted-weight yarn, a scrap of orange, and a few basic notions you probably already own. And because every piece is small, it's the perfect evening project: start after dinner, wake up to a duckling.

Materials you'll need

A quick note on yarn choice: acrylic is the forgiving beginner pick — it holds its shape and the stitches look crisp. Cotton gives you beautiful stitch definition for photos but shows every wobble, so save it for your second duck. If you only have a 4.0 mm hook, that's fine too; your duckling will just come out a touch bigger and softer.

Size, gauge and skill level

• Finished size: about 11 cm (4.5 in) tall sitting, 9 cm (3.5 in) wide.
• Gauge: not critical for amigurumi — what matters is that your fabric is tight enough that stuffing doesn't peek through. If you can see daylight between your stitches, drop down a hook size. As a rough guide, 4 single crochets should measure about 2.5 cm (1 in).
• Skill level: confident beginner. You should know the magic ring, single crochet, increase, decrease, and how to fasten off. Everything else is explained below.

If this is your very first amigurumi, don't panic — the free crochet cat pattern is our most-loved beginner amigurumi and its techniques transfer directly to this duck. The same spiral skills, the same sewing order, a whole different animal.

Abbreviations — US terms

A note on decreases: the invisible decrease (insert hook in front loop only of the next two stitches, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through two loops) keeps your fabric smooth with no little bumps. Use it everywhere this pattern says "dec" and your duckling's head will look professionally finished.

The pattern (US terms)

Work in continuous spirals unless noted. Mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker and move it up as you go. The stitch count at the end of every round is in parentheses — count your stitches, especially on the head. Ten seconds of counting now saves ten minutes of frogging later.

Body — main color (yellow)

• R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
• R2: inc in each st (12)
• R3: [sc, inc] × 6 (18)
• R4: [2 sc, inc] × 6 (24)
• R5: [3 sc, inc] × 6 (30)
• R6–R11: sc in each st around (30) — 6 rounds even
• R12: [3 sc, dec] × 6 (24)
• R13: [2 sc, dec] × 6 (18)
• R14: [sc, dec] × 6 (12)
• Stuff firmly. FO, leaving a long tail (about 30 cm / 12 in) for sewing the head on.

Tip: the body is worked from the bottom up, so the R14 opening sits at the top, hidden under the head. Stuff it firmly — a well-stuffed body is what lets your duck sit upright instead of slumping forward.

Head — main color (yellow)

• R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
• R2: inc in each st (12)
• R3: [sc, inc] × 6 (18)
• R4: [2 sc, inc] × 6 (24)
• R5: [3 sc, inc] × 6 (30)
• R6–R10: sc in each st around (30) — 5 rounds even
• R11: [3 sc, dec] × 6 (24)
• R12: [2 sc, dec] × 6 (18)
• Insert the safety eyes between R8 and R9, 8 stitches apart. Push the washers on firmly — they should click. Start stuffing the head now, while the opening is wide.
• R13: [sc, dec] × 6 (12)
• R14: dec × 6 (6). FO, thread the tail through the front loops of the remaining stitches, pull tight, and weave in.

Tip: stuff the head firmly but not drum-tight. Over-stuffing stretches the stitches and shows the fiberfill; under-stuffing gives you a sad, lumpy head. Aim for the firmness of a tennis ball.

Beak — orange

The beak is worked flat in an oval, then folded slightly as you sew it on. Chain 5 to start.

• R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, 3 sc in last ch, then work down the other side of the chain: sc in next 2 ch, 2 sc in last ch (10)
• R2: inc, 2 sc, [inc] × 3, 2 sc, [inc] × 2 (16)
• R3–R4: sc in each st around (16) — 2 rounds even
• Flatten the piece gently — it should look like a little orange oval, wider than it is tall. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Leave unstuffed, or tuck in the tiniest pinch of fiberfill if you want a puffier beak.

Tip: check your count at the end of R2 — it should be exactly 16. If you have 15, you missed one of the three increases in the middle; if you have 17, you added one. The oval shape depends on that count.

Wings — main color (yellow), make 2

• R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
• R2: [sc, inc] × 3 (9)
• R3: [2 sc, inc] × 3 (12)
• R4–R6: sc in each st around (12) — 3 rounds even
• R7: [2 sc, dec] × 3 (9)
• R8: [sc, dec] × 3 (6)
• Flatten each wing gently. FO, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff.

Feet — orange, make 2

• R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
• R2: [sc, inc] × 3 (9)
• R3: [2 sc, inc] × 3 (12)
• R4: sc in each st around (12)
• R5: [2 sc, dec] × 3 (9)
• Flatten each foot. FO, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff — flat feet are what let your duck sit level.

Tail — main color (yellow)

• R1: MR, 4 sc (4)
• R2: [sc, inc] × 2 (6)
• R3: [2 sc, inc] × 2 (8)
• R4: sc in each st around (8)
• Flatten the piece. FO, leaving a long tail. When you sew it on, pinch the tip to a point — that's the perky little tail in the photos.

Assembly — the order that actually matters

1. Beak first. Pin the flattened orange beak to the front of the head, centered between the eyes, with its top edge sitting around R10 and its bottom edge around R12. Sew around the top and sides with small whipstitches, leaving the bottom edge slightly loose so the beak sticks out a touch — that's the duck look.
2. Head to body. Center the head on top of the body (the body's R14 opening faces up into the head). Using the long tail, sew around the join, then go around a second time for security. Add a little extra stuffing into the neck area before you close the last few stitches so the head doesn't wobble.
3. Wings. Sew the wings to the sides of the body at R8–R10, angled slightly downward and backward, with the flattened edge against the body. Tack the top of each wing firmly and let the bottom hang free — wings that are sewn all the way down look glued on.
4. Feet. Sew the feet to the base front of the body, toes pointing forward, with the flattened edge down. He should now sit upright on his own — if he tips, nudge the feet a few millimeters forward.
5. Tail. Sew the tail to the lower back of the body, pinched to a point and angled slightly upward. Tack it firmly at the base so it sticks out instead of flopping down.
6. Head tuft. Cut three strands of yellow yarn about 8 cm (3 in) long. Fold them in half, pull the loop through the top center of the head with your hook, then pull the ends through the loop and tug snug. Trim to about 2 cm (0.75 in) and fluff the strands apart with your fingers. This tiny tuft is the detail everyone comments on.

Finishing touches

This is where a good duck becomes a great duck. Take fifteen unhurried minutes here; it's the difference between "homemade" and "handmade."

Blush cheeks. With pink embroidery floss, stitch two small circles of satin stitch on the cheeks, just below and outside the eyes — about 3 stitches wide and 2 tall. Keep them small and symmetrical; cheeks wider than 4 stitches look clownish. Alternatively, rub the tiniest amount of pink chalk pastel or blush on a cotton bud and dab it on. Seal with a spritz of hairspray from 30 cm away. Skip the pastel version if the duck is for a small child — go straight to the safety note in the FAQ.

Toe lines. On each orange foot, embroider two short straight stitches in a slightly darker orange or brown, running from the front edge back about 3 stitches. This simple detail reads as webbed toes in photos and takes thirty seconds.

Beak shine (optional). A single tiny white French knot or two short white stitches on the top of the beak reads as a highlight and makes the beak pop in photos. Totally optional, completely charming.

Three cute variations to try next

Once you've made one duck, you'll want a whole flock. The same pattern, three personalities:

1. Mallard duck. Work the body in soft brown, the head in deep green, and the beak in yellow-orange. Add a thin cream ring around the base of the neck (one round of cream sc worked into R1 of the head before you start the green, or a simple embroidered line). Instantly recognizable, and a great gift for bird lovers.
2. Baby chick. Skip the orange beak and work it in yellow instead, then add a tiny orange bow at the neck. Make the head tuft bigger — five strands instead of three — and you've got an Easter chick. Pair it with our free crochet chicken pattern for a whole farmyard set.
3. Sleepy duckling. Replace the safety eyes with embroidered closed eyes — two small curved lines in black floss. Instantly transforms the whole personality from "alert" to "nap time." This version is also the fully child-safe option (see the FAQ).

And if this project gave you the amigurumi bug, the free crochet bunny pattern uses the same spiral techniques with floppy ears, while the crochet fox pattern free adds a two-color tail and a pointy muzzle to your skill set.

Troubleshooting tips

• You can see stuffing through the stitches. Your tension is too loose or your hook is too big. Switch to a 3.25 mm hook, or consciously tighten up — amigurumi fabric should be dense.
• The head wobbles on the neck. Almost always an under-stuffed neck. Unpick three or four stitches of the head-body join, pack in more fiberfill, and re-sew with two full passes.
• The eyes look crooked. Count, don't eyeball: 8 stitches apart, both between the same two rounds. Pin the eyes in place and look at the face straight-on in a mirror before pushing the washers on — mirrors reveal asymmetry your eyes miss.
• The magic ring keeps loosening. After R1, tug the tail firmly, then weave it through the first round in a circle before trimming. Or start with "ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook" instead — slightly less tidy, completely secure.
• The beak looks like a blob, not a beak. Two likely causes: you skipped the R2 count check (it must be 16), or you sewed the bottom edge flat against the head. Leave the bottom edge loose so the beak juts out, and pinch it gently into an oval before sewing.
• The duck tips forward. The feet are too far back or the head is over-stuffed. Move the feet a few millimeters forward and check that the head stuffing isn't pulling the whole duck nose-down.
• Your yarn keeps splitting. Some acrylics split if your hook tip is sharp. Switch to a hook with a more rounded head, or slow down on the yarn-over.

Frequently asked questions

Is this crochet duck pattern really free?

Yes — the complete pattern above is free, no email signup, no PDF purchase required. If you'd like to support the site, sharing the post or saving it on Pinterest is the kindest thank-you.

What skill level is this pattern?

Confident beginner. If you can crochet a magic ring and single crochet in the round, you have every skill this pattern needs. The trickiest part is sewing the pieces together neatly, and the assembly section walks you through the exact order.

How long does it take to make?

About 3–4 hours total: roughly 2 hours of crocheting, 45 minutes of assembly and sewing, and 15–30 minutes of face details and finishing. It's a perfect weekend-afternoon project.

Can I sell the finished ducks I make?

Yes! You may sell finished ducks made from this pattern in small batches (craft fairs, markets, gifts). Please credit Little Loop Finds as the pattern designer with a link back to this page. The pattern text and photos themselves may not be redistributed, republished, or sold.

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Absolutely. Use the hook size recommended on your yarn label minus 0.5 mm (so the fabric stays tight), and your duck will simply come out bigger or smaller. Chunky chenille yarn with a 5.5 mm hook makes a gloriously squishy 20 cm duck — a reader favorite variation.

Is this duck safe for babies and toddlers?

With two changes, yes: embroider the eyes instead of using safety eyes (see the Sleepy duckling variation), and skip any wire or hard notions. Safety eyes are secure for older children and adults but are still small parts, so use your judgment for under-threes.

Can I make the duck bigger?

Yes — the easiest way is to use a thicker yarn and a bigger hook, keeping the same stitch counts. A bulky-weight yarn with a 5 mm hook gives you a duck around 16 cm (6.5 in) tall. Just remember to scale up the safety eyes too (14–15 mm) so the face stays in proportion.

More free patterns to try

If this duckling was fun, keep the hook moving. The flamingo crochet pattern free is another bird with long legs and a totally different silhouette, the free crochet hummingbird pattern is a tiny jewel-toned challenge for when you want something small, and the crochet panda bear pattern free uses the same round-body construction with a two-color face. For a farmyard shelf, pair your duck with the highland cow crochet pattern and the free crochet chicken pattern. And if your duck is destined for a nursery, the woodland nursery mobile crochet pattern turns small plushies into hanging decor, while the little lamb baby snuggle gift set crochet pattern bundles a sweet amigurumi with matching accessories for gift-giving. New to amigurumi altogether? Start with our easy beginner crochet patterns to build your confidence first.