Shih Tzu Crochet Pattern: Fluffy Amigurumi Dog Tutorial
This fluffy sitting pup captures everything we love about the breed — flowing ears, a sweet muzzle, and a bow-tied topknot. Every piece is a simple single crochet spiral with full stitch counts, plus a grooming section that turns loop stitch into real, brushable fluff.
Amigurumi · Crochet
- Finished size
- 7 in (18 cm) tall, sitting
- Making time
- 6–8 hours
- Hook
- 3.5 mm (US E-4)
- Pieces
- 9 pieces + topknot bow
- Skill
- Confident beginner
In this post
If you have ever melted over a shih tzu puppy — silky ears, button nose, and that topknot tied with a bow — this project was made for you. Our shih tzu crochet pattern turns soft yarn into a sweet sitting pup with a cream-and-gold coat, floppy ears you can brush out for real fluff, and a face everyone asks about. It is far easier than it looks: simple single crochet spirals, one piece at a time.
This is an original Little Loop Finds design with clear stitch counts on every round — no complicated colour changes, no tricky stitches. We walk you through every piece, then show you how to sew it together, embroider the face, and groom the fluff. Make one as a gift for a shih tzu owner, or as a weekend treat for yourself.
Contents
- Why you'll love this shih tzu pattern
- Materials you'll need
- Size, gauge and skill level
- Abbreviations — US terms
- The pattern (US terms)
- Finishing
- Tips for the sweetest finish
- FAQ
- What to make next
Why you'll love this shih tzu pattern
Real shih tzus are famous for their flowing coats and unmistakable faces — and this design leans into both. The body is a plump sitting shape that stays upright on a shelf without wire or support. The head is generously sized for that cute puppy look, and the wide muzzle leaves plenty of room for the nose and embroidered mouth, so the expression turns out soft and friendly.
The ears are where the magic happens. Worked in loop stitch, then trimmed and brushed out, they create genuine flowing fluff that moves when you pick the dog up. A small topknot with a tiny bow completes the classic silhouette — five minutes of work that completely sells the breed, so do not skip it.
The pattern is forgiving, too. Every piece is a continuous single crochet spiral with no seams, each small enough to finish in an evening: head tonight, body tomorrow, assembly on Sunday afternoon.
If you enjoy character amigurumi, you will feel right at home. Makers who loved our fluffy crochet cat pattern and the popular highland cow crochet pattern tell us this pup is their new favourite shelf companion — and it sits happily alongside both.
Materials you'll need
Use a smooth worsted-weight (aran / weight 4) acrylic or acrylic-blend yarn. Smooth yarn shows stitch definition, stuffs firmly, and brushes out beautifully on the ears. Avoid very fuzzy yarn for the head and body — it hides stitches and makes counting harder.
| Supply | What to get |
|---|---|
| Main yarn | Worsted weight in cream, about 100 yards (90 m) |
| Contrast yarn | Worsted weight in warm gold, about 60 yards (55 m) |
| Muzzle yarn | Small amount of off-white, about 15 yards (14 m) |
| Hook | 3.5 mm (US E-4) crochet hook |
| Eyes | 9 mm black safety eyes, 1 pair with washers |
| Nose | Dark brown yarn for embroidery, or a 10 mm safety nose |
| Stuffing | Polyester fibre fill, about 2 oz (60 g) |
| Notions | Yarn needle, stitch marker, sharp scissors |
| For the fluff | Slicker pet brush or stiff toothbrush, small scissors |
| For the bow | Ribbon scrap 6 inches (15 cm), or yarn in pink, red or blue |
| Optional | Soft blusher and cotton bud for rosy cheeks |
Amounts are generous for the size below; add a little more gold if you want extra-long ears. Leftovers suit a matching accessory — our crochet dog collar pattern uses only a few yards and looks impossibly cute on the finished pup.
Size, gauge and skill level
Finished size: About 7 inches (18 cm) tall sitting, 5 inches (13 cm) wide, 6 inches (15 cm) deep including the tail. With DK yarn and a 3 mm hook, expect about 5.5 inches (14 cm).
Gauge: 5 sc and 5 rounds = about 1 inch (2.5 cm). Gauge is not critical, but stitches must be tight enough that stuffing does not show through. If you see gaps, drop half a hook size.
Skill level: Confident beginner to intermediate — magic ring, continuous rounds, increases, and invisible decreases. Loop stitch is explained where it appears.
Making time: About 6 to 8 hours in total, spread however you like.
Abbreviations — US terms
This pattern uses US terms throughout. A US single crochet is a UK double crochet.
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| MR | Magic ring |
| ch | Chain |
| sc | Single crochet |
| inc | Increase — 2 sc in the same stitch |
| dec | Invisible decrease — 2 stitches together, front loops only |
| lp st | Loop stitch |
| sl st | Slip stitch |
| st(s) | Stitch(es) |
| rnd | Round |
| rep | Repeat |
| FO | Fasten off |
| BLO | Back loop only |
Numbers in parentheses at the end of each round, like (36), are the total stitch count. Check them as you go, work in continuous spirals unless told otherwise, and move your marker up at the start of every round.
The pattern (US terms)
Work in cream unless told otherwise. Stuff firmly — amigurumi looks better slightly overstuffed, as fabric relaxes over time. Leave a 12 inch (30 cm) tail on every sewn piece; it becomes your sewing thread.
Head
Work in cream.
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: inc in every st. (12)
- Rnd 3: (sc, inc) rep 6 times. (18)
- Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) rep 6 times. (24)
- Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) rep 6 times. (30)
- Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) rep 6 times. (36)
- Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) rep 6 times. (42)
- Rnd 8–13: sc in every st. (42) — 6 rounds even
- Rnd 14: (5 sc, dec) rep 6 times. (36)
- Rnd 15: (4 sc, dec) rep 6 times. (30)
Pause to place the face. Insert safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, about 7 stitches apart, centred on the front. Check spacing with the muzzle held in place before adding washers — they do not come back off easily.
- Rnd 16: (3 sc, dec) rep 6 times. (24)
- Stuff the head firmly now, shaping the cheeks with your fingertips.
- Rnd 17: (2 sc, dec) rep 6 times. (18)
- Rnd 18: (sc, dec) rep 6 times. (12)
- Rnd 19: dec 6 times. (6)
FO, thread the tail through the front loops of the last 6 stitches, pull tight to close, and weave in the end.
Body
Work in cream for a classic look, or switch to gold for the last two rounds for a two-tone tummy.
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: inc in every st. (12)
- Rnd 3: (sc, inc) rep 6 times. (18)
- Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) rep 6 times. (24)
- Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) rep 6 times. (30)
- Rnd 6: BLO sc in every st. (30) — this creates a neat sitting edge
- Rnd 7–10: sc in every st. (30) — 4 rounds even
- Rnd 11: (3 sc, dec) rep 6 times. (24)
- Rnd 12–13: sc in every st. (24)
- Rnd 14: (2 sc, dec) rep 6 times. (18)
- Rnd 15: sc in every st. (18)
Stuff firmly, adding extra at the base so the dog sits flat and does not tip backwards once the head is attached. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Muzzle
Work in cream or off-white. This small oval is worked around a starting chain.
- Rnd 1: ch 5. Starting in the second ch from hook: 3 sc, 3 sc in last ch. Along the other side: 2 sc, inc in last st. (10)
- Rnd 2: inc, 2 sc, inc 3 times, 2 sc, inc 2 times. (16)
- Rnd 3: sc in every st. (16)
- Rnd 4: sc in every st. (16)
FO, leaving a long tail. Stuff very lightly, or leave unstuffed for a flatter look, and pinch into an oval. Embroider the nose now, while the muzzle is separate — far easier than on the assembled head: a small dark nose at top centre, a short vertical stitch below, and a tiny curved mouth to each side.
Ears (make 2)
The ears are worked flat in gold with loop stitch, leaving loops we trim and brush out later. For loop stitch: insert your hook, wrap yarn over the index finger of your yarn hand for a loop about 1 inch (2.5 cm) long, catch both strands and pull through, then yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook. Loops fall to the back, so keep the smooth side facing you. Plain sc rows, brushed later, also work — see Finishing.
- Row 1: ch 7. Starting in second ch from hook, sc across. (6) Turn.
- Row 2: ch 1, lp st in every st. (6) Turn.
- Row 3: ch 1, sc in every st. (6) Turn.
- Rows 4–11: rep rows 2 and 3 four more times. Ear measures about 3.5 inches (9 cm).
- Row 12: ch 1, dec, lp st in next 2 sts, dec. (4) Turn.
- Row 13: ch 1, sc in every st. (4)
FO, leaving a long tail. Do not trim or brush the loops yet — that happens after assembly, when you can judge the shape against the head. Check the second ear against the first so both match; tiny differences vanish once the fluff is brushed out.
Legs (make 4)
All four legs are identical. The front pair supports the chest; the back pair tucks either side of the body for the sitting pose. Work in cream, with the first two rounds in gold for contrasting paws if you like.
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: inc in every st. (12)
- Rnd 3: BLO sc in every st. (12)
- Rnd 4–6: sc in every st. (12) — 3 rounds even
FO, leaving a long tail. Stuff lightly but firmly, keeping the top slightly flattened so it sits flush against the body and sews on without a gap. Make all four before moving on — batching small pieces keeps your tension consistent.
Tail
Start with gold for a contrasting tip, then change to cream.
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: (sc, inc) rep 3 times. (9)
- Rnd 3–4: sc in every st. (9)
- Change to cream.
- Rnd 5–7: sc in every st. (9)
FO, leaving a long tail. Stuff lightly and curve the tail gently with your fingers. It will be sewn to the back of the body pointing up at a cheerful angle, and the light stuffing helps it hold that curve.
Topknot and bow
Cut 12 strands of cream or gold yarn about 3 inches (8 cm) long. Fold the bundle in half, pull the folded centre through a stitch at the top of the head, pass the ends through the loop, and pull snug. Add two smaller bundles either side, trim to about 1 inch (2.5 cm), and brush lightly.
For the bow, tie ribbon at the base of the topknot, or crochet one: ch 8, sc in second ch from hook and across (7), work 3 rows of sc, FO, wrap yarn around the middle six times, knot at the back, and sew on. Restyle it with the seasons, from pastels to festive red.
Finishing
Set aside a calm half hour for assembly. Lay out every piece — head, body, muzzle, two ears, four legs, tail — and pin everything in place before you sew a single stitch. Look at the dog from the front, the side, and above. Pins are free; unpicking is not.
Sewing the pieces together
Start with the head and body — everything else is positioned in relation to them. Centre the head on the body, slightly forward of the middle, pin all around, and whip stitch through one body stitch and one head stitch per pass. Add a pinch of extra stuffing into the neck just before closing; a firm neck stops head wobble.
Sew the muzzle centred between and just below the eyes, top edge around round 12 of the head, stitching all the way around. If the nose and mouth are not done yet, embroider them now: a small dark oval, one short vertical stitch below it, and a tiny curve to each side. Keep it small — on a face this size, less is more.
Pin the front legs to the lower front of the body, about 4 stitches apart, angled slightly outward, and the back legs to the sides at the base so their ends peek out in a sitting pose. Check the dog sits level before sewing, then sew each leg with small, tight stitches.
Sew the tail low on the back, angled upward. Pin the ears to each side of the head, top edge around round 7, hanging alongside the cheek. Too high looks like horns; too low, like a beard — aim just above eye level, check both sides match, and sew firmly across the top edge. Add the topknot and bow between the ears, rosy cheeks if you like, then reshape and hide all ends deep in the stuffing.
Grooming the fluff
This step turns a nice crochet dog into a shih tzu, so take your time. Start with the ears: if you worked loop stitch, carefully cut through the centre of each loop, turning every loop into two free strands. Keep scissor points away from the crocheted base so you never snip the stitches themselves.
Brush gently with the slicker brush in the direction the fur should fall — downward for the ears, upward for the topknot — using short, light strokes. The yarn separates into soft fibres and the volume roughly doubles; this is the moment the dog truly appears. Trim the ears into a neat rounded shape, tidy stray strands around the cheeks, and brush the tail the same way for a fluffy plume.
If you worked plain ears, brush the surface firmly until fibres lift and stitches blur, adding cut strands along the lower edge for length. You can always brush more; you cannot put fibres back. Finish by smoothing face fur away from the eyes and nose, fluffing the topknot, and straightening the bow.
Tips for the sweetest finish
Count on increase rounds. Counting each repeat as you work catches a missed increase immediately, instead of three rounds later when the head has a mysterious flat spot.
Mark the front early. Once the eyes are placed, add a strand of contrast yarn at the back of the head so you always know which way it faces during assembly.
Stuff in small pieces. Add fill in small clouds, pushing it into the edges with the blunt end of a hook. Little clouds make a smooth shape; one big lump does not.
Check with a photo. A phone picture reveals wonky ears and lopsided legs more honestly than your eyes do. Photograph before the final stitches, while adjusting is still easy.
Make accessories part of the fun. A tiny collar, seasonal bow, or bandana turns one pattern into endless gifts. Pair this pup with our crochet panda bear pattern, or adapt the sizing ideas in the free crochet cat sweater pattern to dress your finished dog.
FAQ
Is this shih tzu crochet pattern suitable for beginners?
Yes, with a little patience. If you can work a magic ring, single crochet, increase, and decrease, you have every core skill. Loop stitch is explained stitch by stitch, or substitute plain brushed rows.
How big is the finished dog?
About 7 inches (18 cm) tall sitting in worsted yarn. Use DK yarn for a 5.5 inch (14 cm) pup, or chunky yarn for a cuddly 9 inch (23 cm) version.
Can I sell dogs made from this pattern?
Yes — sell finished dogs you have made yourself at markets, fairs, and in your own shop. Please credit Little Loop Finds as designer, and do not share or resell the written pattern itself.
How do I make the coat look fluffy like a real shih tzu?
The fluff comes from finishing, not special yarn. Work the ears in loop stitch, cut each loop open, brush the strands with a slicker brush until fibres separate, then trim into shape. Use the same treatment on tail and topknot.
What can I use instead of safety eyes?
For a baby or toddler gift, embroider the eyes in satin stitch with a tiny white highlight, or sew on felt circles. Avoid detachable parts for children under three, and sew every piece extra firmly.
My dog will not sit up straight — what went wrong?
Usually the base needs more stuffing or the back legs need repositioning. Add extra fill low in the body, check that body round 6 was worked in the back loop only, and pin the back legs slightly further forward before re-sewing.
Can I change the colours to match my own dog?
Absolutely. The breed comes in white, gold, grey, brindle, and black-and-white, so swap colours freely — or work one ear in each colour for a mismatched look. Keep the muzzle light so the nose and mouth stay easy to see.
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