Crochet Skirt Pattern (Knee Length, Free)

A handmade crochet skirt is one of those garments that looks far harder to make than it is. This free crochet skirt pattern makes a regular knee-length A-line skirt in soft cotton yarn, worked from the top down with a comfortable ribbed waistband and a gentle flare that suits every body. It is an original Little Loop Finds design, written in US terms, in four sizes, and it works up in simple double crochet with a pretty shell hem.

The skirt is worked in the round with no seams to sew. You start with a ribbed waistband worked in rows, join it into a loop, and work the body downward in rounds, adding a few increases so the skirt flares gently and falls to just above the knee. A drawstring waist means the fit is forgiving, and the shell edge gives the hem a finished look. If you can chain, half double crochet, and double crochet, you can make this skirt, and you will want to wear it all summer.

A quick note on scope: this post is a pattern for a regular knee-length crochet skirt, with a hem that falls just above the knee. It is not a mini skirt. If you want a shorter style, our crochet mini skirt pattern is the day-16 pattern for a mini length, and this pattern is the longer, everyday version.

Key Takeaways

• Free original pattern: this crochet skirt pattern is a Little Loop Finds original design, written in US terms, and completely free.
• Knee-length A-line fit: a regular knee-length skirt with a gentle flare, a ribbed waistband, and a drawstring for a forgiving fit.
• Four sizes included: small, medium, large, and extra large, with a stitch count at the end of every increase round.
• Seamless top-down build: no seams to sew, just rounds of double crochet worked downward from the waistband.
• Wearable and giftable: about 8 to 10 hours from first stitch to finished skirt, and a lovely handmade gift.

Table of Contents

• Why You Will Love This Skirt
• Finished Size, Skill Level, and Time
• Materials You Need
• Abbreviations (US Terms)
• Gauge and Sizing Notes
• Part 1: The Ribbed Waistband
• Part 2: The Body and A-Line Increases
• Part 3: Shell Hem, Drawstring, and Finishing
• Variations: Colors, Lengths, and Styles
• Troubleshooting Skirts That Flare or Sag
• Care Instructions
• Frequently Asked Questions

Why You Will Love This Skirt

There is a special kind of pride in wearing something you crocheted yourself, and a skirt is the perfect first garment because it is mostly just a big tube with increases. You work round after round of double crochet, watch the skirt grow longer in your lap, and try it on as you go to check the length. The cotton yarn drapes beautifully, and the finished skirt pairs with everything from a plain white tee to a linen blouse.

This skirt is also a wonderful warm-weather project. Cotton yarn stays cool against the skin, and the open double crochet fabric breathes, so the skirt is comfortable on the hottest days. The pattern is rhythmic and relaxing once the waistband is done, and the finished skirt looks like something from a boutique.

Finished Size, Skill Level, and Time

• Finished size: knee length, about 20 inches long in size small, 22 inches in medium, 23 inches in large, and 24 inches in extra large, measured from the top of the waistband to the hem. Waist sizes: small 26 to 28 inches, medium 30 to 32 inches, large 34 to 36 inches, extra large 38 to 40 inches.
• Skill level: Easy. You need to know how to chain, half double crochet, double crochet, and slip stitch, plus back loop only stitches for the ribbed waistband. The shell hem is explained step by step.
• Time: about 8 to 10 hours total: roughly 1 hour for the waistband, 6 to 7 hours for the body, and 1 hour for the hem, drawstring, and finishing.

Materials You Need

Cotton yarn is the best choice for a crochet skirt because it drapes well, breathes in warm weather, and holds its shape without sagging the way acrylic does. Mercerized cotton gives a smooth finish with a slight sheen, while unmercerized cotton feels softer and more casual. Choose a solid color or a gentle variegated yarn, because busy multicolor yarns hide the shell hem and the shaping.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• inc = increase (2 stitches in the same stitch)
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• rnd(s) = round(s)
• rep = repeat
• sk = skip
• sp = space
• BLO = back loop only

Gauge and Sizing Notes

Gauge matters for a garment more than for a blanket, because the wrong gauge means the wrong size. Work a swatch: chain 22, work 12 rows of double crochet, and measure. You want 16 double crochet stitches and 9 rows to equal 4 inches. If your swatch is wider than 4 inches, go down a hook size. If it is narrower, go up a hook size. The fabric should drape softly, so do not work tighter than the gauge calls for.

Measure your waist where you want the skirt to sit, usually at your natural waist or just below it, and choose the size that matches. The drawstring waist is forgiving, so if you fall between sizes, choose the smaller one, because cotton relaxes a little with wear. Sizes are written for medium, with small, large, and extra large in parentheses.

Part 1: The Ribbed Waistband

The waistband is worked back and forth in rows of half double crochet in the back loop only, which creates a stretchy ribbed fabric that hugs the waist comfortably. The band is worked sideways, so the number of rows sets the waist size, and the height of the band is set by the number of stitches in each row. When the band is the right length, join the two short ends and work the body down from the long edge. The waistband row counts are: small 84 rows, medium 96 rows, large 108 rows, extra large 120 rows.

The Waistband

With main color, ch 13.

• Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (12 hdc)
• Rows 2 to 96 (S 84, L 108, XL 120): ch 1, turn, hdc in BLO of each st across. (12 hdc)
• Join the two short ends: fold the band so the short ends meet, and sl st the ends together through both layers to form a loop. Do not fasten off.

Your waistband should measure about 30 inches around for size medium, and about 3 inches tall. Try it around your waist before you move on: it should fit snugly but comfortably, with a little stretch. If it is too loose, work fewer rows, or go down a hook size. If it is too tight, add rows until it fits.

Part 2: The Body and A-Line Increases

The body is worked in the round from the bottom edge of the waistband, with one double crochet in the end of each waistband row for the first round. The increases are spaced evenly around the skirt every six rounds, which gives the A-line shape its gentle flare without any sudden jumps. Count your stitches after every increase round, because a missed increase shows up as a skirt that hangs crooked.

Building the Body

• Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in the end of each waistband row around. Join with a sl st to the top of the ch 3. (96 dc; S 84, L 108, XL 120)
• Rnds 2 to 6: ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (96 dc)
• Rnd 7 (increase round): ch 3, (dc in next 7 sts, 2 dc in next st) rep around. Join. (108 dc; S 96 with dc 6 spacing, L 120 with dc 8 spacing, XL 132 with dc 9 spacing)
• Rnds 8 to 12: ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (108 dc; S 96, L 120, XL 132)
• Rnd 13 (increase round): ch 3, (dc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in next st) rep around. Join. (120 dc; S 108 with dc 7 spacing, L 132 with dc 9 spacing, XL 144 with dc 10 spacing)
• Rnds 14 to 18: ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (120 dc; S 108, L 132, XL 144)
• Rnd 19 (increase round): ch 3, (dc in next 9 sts, 2 dc in next st) rep around. Join. (132 dc; S 120 with dc 8 spacing, L 144 with dc 10 spacing, XL 156 with dc 11 spacing)
• Rnds 20 to 24: ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (132 dc; S 120, L 144, XL 156)
• Rnd 25 (increase round): ch 3, (dc in next 10 sts, 2 dc in next st) rep around. Join. (144 dc; S 132 with dc 9 spacing, L 156 with dc 11 spacing, XL 168 with dc 12 spacing)
• Rnds 26 to 30: ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (144 dc; S 132, L 156, XL 168)
• Rnd 31 (increase round): ch 3, (dc in next 11 sts, 2 dc in next st) rep around. Join. (156 dc; S 144 with dc 10 spacing, L 168 with dc 12 spacing, XL 180 with dc 13 spacing)
• Rnds 32 to 40: ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (156 dc; S 144, L 168, XL 180)

The skirt should now measure about 21 inches from the top of the waistband to the last round for size medium, and the flare should look gentle and even all the way around. Try the skirt on before the hem: it should sit at your waist and fall to just above your knee. If it is too short, add more plain rounds before the hem. If it is too long, work fewer plain rounds. The hem round in the next part adds about half an inch.

Part 3: Shell Hem, Drawstring, and Finishing

The shell hem is the pretty finish that makes the skirt look complete. It is a simple repeat of single crochet and five double crochet shells, worked into the last round of the body. The drawstring threads through the top of the waistband and lets you adjust the fit.

Shell Hem

Change to accent color if you want a contrast hem, or stay with the main color for a matching hem.

• Rnd 41: ch 1, (sc in next st, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts) rep around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off. (26 shells for size medium; S 24, L 28, XL 30)

The shells should sit evenly around the hem with no puckering. If a shell pulls the fabric inward, work the hem round with a hook one size larger.

Drawstring

With main or accent color, chain 120 (S 110, L 130, XL 140). Work slip stitches back along the chain for a sturdy cord, or leave it plain for a softer cord. Thread the drawstring through the top row of the waistband using a tapestry needle, weaving in and out of every other stitch, and tie the ends in a small bow at the front. Add a knot at each end of the cord so it cannot slip back through the waistband.

Finishing

Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle, working the tails through the backs of several stitches so they disappear into the fabric. Turn the skirt inside out and check the waistband join, because that seam takes the most stress when you put the skirt on. If you see any gaps, close them with a few whip stitches. Turn the skirt right side out, try it on, and adjust the drawstring so the waist sits where you want it. Your skirt is ready to wear.

If you want a lining, cut lightweight cotton voile to the size of the finished skirt minus two inches in length, sew it into a tube with an elastic waist, and wear it under the skirt.

Variations: Colors, Lengths, and Styles

• Maxi skirt: work the body for 55 rounds instead of 40, with two extra increase rounds at rounds 37 and 43, for an ankle-length skirt. Our crochet circle vest pattern makes a matching layer for cooler days.
• Striped skirt: change color every four rounds in the body for bold horizontal stripes. Our crochet shorts pattern uses the same waistband in a shorter garment.
• Lace hem skirt: replace the shell hem with a round of (double crochet, chain 1, skip 1) followed by a picot edge. Our free crochet frock patterns collection has more lacy garment ideas.
• Mini version: stop the body at round 22 and add the shell hem for a shorter skirt.
• Two-tone waistband: work the waistband in the accent color and the body in the main color for a smart contrast detail that looks ready made.
• Summer set: pair the skirt with a simple crochet top for a matching handmade outfit. Our crochet top pattern and our crochet bralette pattern free are both good partners for this skirt.

Troubleshooting Skirts That Flare or Sag

• My skirt flares too much at the hem. Too many increases were worked, or the increase rounds were too close together. Check the stitch counts after each increase round, and on your next skirt, space the increase rounds eight rounds apart instead of six.
• My skirt has no flare at all. The increase rounds were missed, or the counts are short. Count your stitches at the end of each increase round, and add one more increase round before the hem if the skirt still looks straight.
• My waistband is too loose. The band was worked too long, or the gauge is loose. Work the band with a hook one size smaller, and tighten the drawstring so the skirt stays put.
• My skirt sags and grows longer with wear. Cotton relaxes with wear, especially in a heavy skirt. Work the body at the gauge in this pattern, dry the skirt flat after washing, and store it folded, not hanging.
• My hem shells look uneven. The stitch count before the hem was not divisible by six. Count the last body round before you start the hem: size medium should have 156 stitches, and the other sizes should have 144, 168, or 180.
• My skirt twists around my body. The join drifted while working in the round, or the waistband join sits off center. Keep the join at the same stitch every round.

Care Instructions

Turn the skirt inside out and hand wash it in cool water with a mild soap, gently squeezing the suds through the fabric without wringing or twisting. Rinse in cool water until the water runs clear, then roll the skirt in a clean towel and press to remove water. Lay it flat to dry, shaping the waistband and the hem so they keep their shape, and leave it away from direct heat. Do not machine wash or tumble dry a cotton skirt, because the agitation felts the stitches and the heat shrinks the garment. Fold the skirt for storage, because hanging stretches it longer over time. If it grows with wear, wash and reshape it flat, and the cotton will spring back.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this crochet skirt pattern good for beginners?

Yes, it is a great first garment. You need to know chains, half double crochet, and double crochet, and the pattern explains the ribbed waistband and the shell hem step by step. Every increase round ends with a stitch count, so you can check your work as you go.

What yarn is best for a crochet skirt?

DK weight 100 percent cotton is the best choice, because it drapes well, breathes in warm weather, and holds its shape without sagging. Mercerized cotton gives a smooth finish with a slight sheen, while unmercerized cotton feels softer. Avoid heavy or fuzzy yarns, because they make a skirt that is hot and shapeless.

How long is the finished skirt?

Knee length: about 20 inches in size small, 22 inches in medium, 23 inches in large, and 24 inches in extra large, measured from the top of the waistband to the hem. The pattern gives notes for making it longer or shorter.

Will the skirt stretch when I wear it?

A cotton skirt worked at the gauge in this pattern stretches very little, because the waistband is ribbed and the drawstring holds the fit.

Can I make the skirt longer or shorter?

Yes. Add or remove plain body rounds before the hem round to change the length by as much as you like. For a maxi length, add two extra increase rounds as well. For a shorter skirt, stop at round 22 and add the shell hem.

Do I need to line the skirt?

No, a lining is optional. The double crochet fabric is fairly dense, so most people wear the skirt without one.

Can I sell skirts made from this pattern?

Yes, you may sell finished skirts made from this free pattern, with credit to Little Loop Finds. Please do not sell or republish the pattern text itself.

Happy stitching, and may your new skirt carry you through many sunny days, garden parties, and slow summer afternoons.