Crochet Bralette Pattern Free: Easy Summer Top

A handmade bralette is the ultimate summer make: quick, comfy, and completely adjustable to your body. This crochet bralette pattern free download makes a sweet triangle-cup top with tie straps, a stretchy underband, and a pretty scalloped edge, and it is my own original design written in simple US terms. It works up fast in cotton yarn, which keeps it breathable on hot days, and the tie-back style means no fiddly clasps or closures.

The fit is the best part. Instead of fixed cup sizes that never quite match, you crochet each triangle cup to the chain count that suits you, then tie the straps exactly where you want them. The sizing chart below covers XS through XL, and I will show you how to measure yourself so the top sits comfortably all day, whether you wear it to the beach, a festival, or layered under an open shirt.

If you can single crochet, half double crochet, and chain, you have every skill this project needs. The shaping is just a simple decrease every row, and the rest is straight stitching and easy assembly.

Table of contents

• Why you'll love this crochet bralette pattern
• Materials you'll need
• Size, gauge and skill level
• Abbreviations, US terms
• The crochet bralette pattern (US terms)
• Finishing touches and assembly
• Tips and tricks
• Variations to try next
• Troubleshooting tips
• Frequently asked questions
• More free patterns to try

Why you'll love this crochet bralette pattern

Store-bought bralettes come in generic sizes and scratchy synthetics. A crocheted bralette solves both problems at once: you choose the yarn, you choose the size, and the tie straps adjust to exactly where you like them. Cotton yarn is the secret weapon here. It breathes, it softens with every wash, and it has just enough structure to hold the cups without padding or underwire.

The construction is refreshingly simple. Each cup is a triangle made by decreasing one stitch at the start of every row: no counting complicated shaping, no increases to track. The underband is a plain rectangle, and the straps are reinforced chains. Sew four pieces together and you have a top. Most makers finish the whole thing in a weekend, and the second cup always goes twice as fast as the first.

It is also a wonderful stash-friendly summer project. One or two skeins of cotton is all you need, and the design looks great in solids, stripes, or variegated yarn. If you are building a handmade summer wardrobe, our free crochet swimsuit pattern is the natural next project, and the crochet mini skirt pattern pairs with this bralette for the full festival set.

Materials you'll need

Choose a smooth 100% cotton or cotton-blend DK yarn. Cotton is the key to a bralette that stays comfy: it breathes in the heat, it does not stretch out like acrylic can, and it washes beautifully. Avoid fuzzy or novelty yarns for this one, because you want the stitches to lie flat and the shaping to stay crisp. A light, bright colour shows off the scalloped edge best, but dark colours are more forgiving of wear.

A note on the hook: 4.0 mm with DK cotton gives a firm, opaque fabric. If your fabric looks see-through when you hold it up to the light, drop to a 3.75 mm hook. The cups need to be dense enough for coverage, so do not size up here.

Size, gauge and skill level

The top is sized by your underbust measurement, and each cup is sized by the starting chain. Measure around your ribcage directly under your bust for the band, and measure across one cup of a well-fitting bra (from centre gore to side seam) to pick your cup chain length. The tie straps make everything else adjustable.

• Finished size (M): each cup is about 7 in (18 cm) wide at the base and 7.5 in (19 cm) tall; the underband measures about 30 in (76 cm) before tying, fitting a 32-34 in underbust with the ties. All sizes adjust at the straps.
• Gauge: 18 sc and 20 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in DK cotton with a 4.0 mm hook. The cups should feel firm and hold their shape, not drape loosely.
• Skill level: easy. You should know how to chain, single crochet, half double crochet, and decrease (sc2tog). The assembly is simple whipstitching.

If you are between sizes, size down: cotton relaxes slightly with wear, and the ties give you plenty of adjustment room.

Abbreviations, US terms

A note on turning chains: the ch 1 at the start of each sc row does not count as a stitch. Work your first stitch into the very first stitch of the previous row so the edges stay straight.

The crochet bralette pattern (US terms)

The top has four parts: two triangle cups, one underband, and four straps. Make both cups first, then the band, then the straps, and sew everything together in the finishing section.

The triangle cups (make 2)

Each cup starts wide at the bottom and decreases to a point at the top. Chain the starting number for your size: 14 (XS), 16 (S), 18 (M), 20 (L), 22 (XL).

• R1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. [13 (15, 17, 19, 21)]
• R2: ch 1 (does not count), sc2tog over the first 2 sts, sc in each st across to the end. [12 (14, 16, 18, 20)]
• R3-R?: repeat R2 until 5 sts remain. For the M size that means working through R13. Do not fasten off.

You now have a triangle with the wide edge at the bottom (your R1 edge) and the point at the top (the last row). The long slanted edge is where the scallop trim goes.

The scalloped edge trim

With the cup still on your hook and the right side facing you, work down the slanted edge of the triangle (the edge formed by the decreases).

• Trim R1: ch 1, sc evenly down the slanted edge, working 1 sc into the end of each row. For the M size that is about 13 sc. At the bottom corner, work 3 sc into the corner stitch to turn, then sc evenly across the bottom edge (the R1 edge): 1 sc per stitch, 17 for M. Work 3 sc into the other bottom corner to turn.
• Trim R2 (scallops): ch 1, skip 1 st, 5 dc in the next st, skip 1 st, sl st in the next st; repeat from * to * along the slanted edge and the bottom edge, ending with a sl st in the last corner. FO, leaving a 12 in tail for sewing.

The scallops give the cup a pretty finished edge and a touch of vintage charm. If the edge ripples, your scallops are too full: switch to 4 dc per scallop. If it pulls tight, add a chain between scallops.

The underband

Measure your underbust and add about 24 in (61 cm) for the ties. For most sizes, chain: XS 120, S 128, M 136, L 144, XL 152. If you want shorter ties, chain 8 fewer on each side.

• R1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across.
• R2-R3: ch 1, sc in each st across. FO and weave in the ends.

The band should wrap around your ribcage with long tie ends hanging on each side. Mark the centre of the band with a stitch marker: the cups will be sewn on centred at this mark, with about 1 in (2.5 cm) of space between the cups at the centre front.

The straps (make 4)

Two straps tie around the neck, and two continue the band into back ties. Actually, the band already has long tie ends, so these four straps are the neck ties: two per cup.

• Each neck strap: ch 70 (adjust to your torso length: longer torsos add 5, shorter subtract 5). Turn, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. FO, leaving a 6 in tail.

The slip-stitched chain is much sturdier than a plain chain and will not stretch out when you tie it. Make all four straps the same length so the ties match.

Finishing touches and assembly

Sew the cups to the band. Lay the band flat with your centre marker. Place the two cups right side up on the band, bottom edges along the top of the band, spaced about 1 in (2.5 cm) apart at the centre. Pin or baste them, then whipstitch the bottom edge of each cup to the band with the tapestry needle and the yarn tail, working through both layers. Sew firmly: this seam carries the weight of the top.

Attach the neck straps. Sew one strap to the top point of each cup with several whipstitches, then add the second strap right beside it, so each cup has two straps rising from its point. These tie around your neck or cross at the back, whichever you prefer. Reinforce the join: pass the needle through the point stitches at least four times.

Try it on and adjust. Tie the back band first, then the neck straps. The cups should sit centred on your bust with the scalloped edges framing the neckline. If the cups gape at the top, shorten the neck straps by tying a knot further down. If the band rides up, it is too loose: retie it tighter or remake the band two inches shorter.

Weave every end. Thread each tail onto the tapestry needle and run it through nearby stitches for at least 2 inches, changing direction once so it locks. Cotton ends can work loose in the wash, so be generous here.

Block lightly (optional). Dampen the top, lay it flat, and gently shape the cups into even triangles. Pin the scallops so they lie flat, let it dry completely, and the lace edge will look crisp and professional.

Tips and tricks

A few details that take this top from homemade to handmade:

Check opacity before you commit. Hold the finished cup up to a window. If you can clearly see light through the stitches, your fabric is too loose for a bralette. Drop half a hook size and remake the cup: an hour of rework beats a top you never wear.

Keep the decreases on the same edge. The triangle only looks right if every decrease happens at the start of the row. Mark the decrease edge with a stitch marker so you never accidentally decrease at the wrong end after putting the work down.

Reinforce every strap join. Straps take real stress when you tie them. Sew each strap to the cup with at least six whipstitches, and knot the sewing tail twice on the inside before weaving it in.

Make the ties long on purpose. You can always trim a tie that is too long, but you cannot add length to a short one. Err on the side of extra chain length: long ties wrap twice and look intentional.

Wash before you judge the fit. Cotton relaxes and softens in the first wash. If the top feels a touch snug fresh off the hook, that is usually correct: it will ease into a perfect fit after one wash and wear.

Variations to try next

One bralette is never enough once summer arrives:

1. Striped festival version. Change colours every two rows on the cups for a bold striped look. Our free crochet shrug pattern in a matching stripe makes the perfect beach cover-up.
2. Long-line crop top. Work the underband 6 rows deep instead of 3, and sew the cups on higher, for a crop top with more coverage and a retro feel.
3. Lace-trim upgrade. Replace the scallop row with a row of picots (ch 3, sl st in first ch) for a daintier edge, or add a second scallop row in a contrast colour. Our crochet lace edgings free patterns collection has edging ideas that adapt beautifully to these cups.
4. Cross-back straps. Instead of tying the neck straps behind your neck, cross them at the back and thread them through the band ties at the sides. It distributes the weight better for larger cup sizes.
5. Granny square cups. Replace the triangle cups with two small granny squares for a boho patchwork look. Keep the same band and strap construction: the assembly is identical.

Troubleshooting tips

• The cups are see-through. Your hook is too big for the yarn, or your tension is loose. Remake the cups with a 3.75 mm hook and check opacity again before continuing.
• The triangle leans to one side. You decreased at the wrong end of a row, or missed a decrease. Count your stitches: each row should have exactly one fewer stitch than the last. Frog back to the last correct row.
• The scalloped edge ripples. The scallops are too full for the edge. Switch from 5 dc to 4 dc per scallop, or add a chain stitch between scallops to give them room.
• The scalloped edge pulls in. The opposite problem: too few stitches in the trim row. Work 2 sc into some row-ends along the slanted edge so the trim has enough stitches to lie flat.
• The band ties stretch out. Plain chains stretch under tension. Remake the ties as slip-stitched chains (sl st back along the chain), which barely stretch at all.
• The cups gap at the neckline. The neck straps are too long or tied too loosely. Shorten the straps, or cross them at the back for a closer fit.
• The top feels tight after washing. Cotton can shrink slightly in hot water. Wash cold and lay flat to dry, and the fit will stay consistent.

Frequently asked questions

Is this crochet bralette pattern really free?

Yes, the complete pattern above is free, with no email signup and no PDF purchase required.

What skill level is this bralette pattern?

Easy. If you can chain, single crochet, and work a simple decrease, you have every skill this pattern needs. The assembly is basic whipstitching.

How long does it take to crochet the bralette?

About 6 hours total: roughly 2 hours per cup including the trim, 1 hour for the band, and 1 hour for the straps and assembly. The second cup always goes faster than the first.

How much yarn do I need?

About 200 yds for XS-S, 230 yds for M-L, and 260 yds for XL, in DK-weight cotton. That is one to two skeins depending on the brand, so check your yardage before you start.

Will this bralette fit a larger bust?

The pattern covers up to a 40 in underbust with an adjustable tie fit. For fuller busts, start the cup with 2 extra chains and work the cup 2 rows taller before the scallop trim, then tie the straps a little tighter for support.

Can I wear this bralette as a swimsuit top?

Cotton absorbs water and dries slowly, so it is not ideal for swimming. For the pool or beach, make it in a synthetic or cotton-blend yarn that handles water better, and check out our free crochet swimsuit pattern for a design made for the water.

Can I sell the finished bralettes I make?

Yes! You may sell finished tops made from this pattern in small batches (craft fairs, markets, online shops). Please credit Little Loop Finds as the pattern designer.

More free patterns to try

If this summer top was fun, keep the warm-weather makes coming. Our crochet poncho free pattern is the perfect breezy layer to throw over the bralette on cool evenings, and the free crochet shrug pattern works up just as fast for festival season. For a matching set, the crochet mini skirt pattern completes the outfit.