Crochet Shorts Pattern (Easy Summer Shorts, Free)

There is nothing quite like a pair of handmade crochet shorts on a warm summer day. They are breezy, comfortable, and just a little bit boho, and this free crochet shorts pattern shows you how to make a pair from scratch with simple stitches and a forgiving fit. The shorts are worked from the waist down in easy rounds, with a stretchy ribbed waistband, a roomy body, and a pretty scalloped hem that you can make as long or as short as you like.

This is an original Little Loop Finds design, written in US terms and completely free. The shorts use basic stitches you probably already know: chains, single crochet, half double crochet, and double crochet. There is no complicated shaping and no sewing a lining, just a smooth top-down construction that you try on as you go. If you can crochet a hat in the round, you can crochet these shorts.

A quick note on scope: this post is about crochet shorts, a garment you wear, not a skirt and not a pair of baby bloomers. If you want a skirt instead, our crochet mini skirt pattern uses the same waistband idea in a flared shape, and the two make a sweet matching set.

Key Takeaways

• Free original pattern: this crochet shorts pattern is a Little Loop Finds original design, written in US terms, and completely free.
• Top-down and try-as-you-go: worked from the waistband down in rounds, so you can check the fit at every step.
• Beginner friendly garment: simple stitches, no tricky shaping, and a stretchy waistband that forgives small size mistakes.
• Weekend project: about 6 to 8 hours from first stitch to finished shorts, including the drawstring.
• Wonderfully wearable: soft cotton yarn, a scalloped hem, and a fit you can adjust to your own body.

Table of Contents

• Why You Will Love These Shorts
• Finished Size, Skill Level, and Time
• Materials You Need
• Abbreviations (US Terms)
• Gauge and Sizing Notes
• Part 1: Waistband and Body
• Part 2: Leg Openings and Legs
• Part 3: Drawstring, Hem, and Fitting
• Variations: Colors, Lengths, and Stripes
• Troubleshooting Shorts That Sag or Pinch
• Care Instructions
• Frequently Asked Questions

Why You Will Love These Shorts

Handmade shorts are one of the most satisfying garments to crochet, because the result is something you actually wear all summer. They pair with a tank top, a linen shirt, or a swimsuit cover up, and they look just as good at a farmers market as they do on a beach walk. The open stitch pattern keeps them cool, and cotton yarn means they breathe instead of clinging.

This design is also a great first garment project. A sweater can feel like a big commitment, but shorts are small, quick, and worked in one piece, so there is no seaming to dread. The ribbed waistband stretches to fit, which means you do not need a perfect body measurement before you start. You simply crochet the waistband to your own waist, then work the body down from there. Many makers finish the waistband in one evening and the rest over a relaxed weekend.

Finished Size, Skill Level, and Time

• Finished size: sizes S (M, L, XL) to fit waist 28 (32, 36, 40) inches, with a 3 inch inseam and a relaxed fit through the hips. The waistband stretches about 2 inches.
• Skill level: Easy. You need chains, slip stitches, single crochet, half double crochet, and double crochet, plus working in the round and simple increases.
• Time: about 6 to 8 hours total: roughly 1 hour for the waistband, 3 hours for the body, 2 hours for the legs, and 1 hour for the drawstring, hem, and fitting.

Materials You Need

Cotton yarn is the best choice for shorts because it is cool, sturdy, and holds its shape when it gets warm. A cotton acrylic blend is a good second choice, because it adds a little softness and makes the shorts easier to wash. Avoid pure wool for summer shorts, because it is warm and can felt in the wash. Whatever yarn you choose, pick a smooth yarn with clear stitch definition, because fuzzy yarn hides the openwork pattern that makes these shorts so pretty.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• inc = increase (2 stitches in the same stitch)
• dec = decrease (2 stitches worked together)
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• rnd(s) = round(s)
• rep = repeat
• sk = skip

Gauge and Sizing Notes

Gauge for these shorts is 14 double crochet stitches and 8 rows = 4 inches, worked in the round with a 5.0 mm hook. Take a few minutes to check your gauge, because a garment that is two inches too big or too small is a real disappointment. If you have too many stitches in 4 inches, go up a hook size. If you have too few, go down a hook size.

These shorts are designed with about 2 inches of positive ease through the hips, which means they sit relaxed rather than tight. If you like a closer fit, make the size below your usual size. If you are between sizes, make the larger size, because the drawstring waistband lets you pull the waist in. Measure your waist where you want the waistband to sit, usually at the natural waist or on the hips, and choose the size that matches that number.

The pattern is written for size S, with sizes M, L, and XL in parentheses: S (M, L, XL). When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

Part 1: Waistband and Body

The shorts start with a ribbed waistband worked flat in rows, then joined into a circle. The body is then worked downward in rounds, so you can try the shorts on as you go. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round, and do not turn your work unless the pattern tells you to.

Waistband

With main color yarn, ch 13.

• Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (11 sts)
• Row 2: ch 2, turn, hdc in BLO of each st across. (11 sts)
• Rep Row 2 until the band measures 28 (32, 36, 40) inches unstretched, about 92 (106, 120, 132) rows. Do not stretch the band while you measure, because the ribbing needs to relax to its natural length.
• Join the two short ends with slip stitches to form a circle. Do not fasten off.

Body

Turn the waistband so the join is at the back. Work one round of single crochet around the long edge of the waistband, placing 1 sc in the end of each row: 92 (106, 120, 132) sc. Join with a sl st to the first sc.

• Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the top of the ch 3. (92 (106, 120, 132) sts)
• Rnd 2: ch 3, (dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st) rep around. Join. (115 (133, 150, 165) sts)
• Rnd 3: ch 3, dc in each st around. Join.
• Rnd 4: ch 3, (dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st) rep around. Join. (138 (160, 180, 198) sts)
• Rnds 5 to 10: ch 3, dc in each st around. Join.

This straight section is the body of the shorts, and it should measure about 5 inches from the bottom of the waistband. Try the shorts on now. The body should sit comfortably over your hips with a little room to move. If it feels tight, add two more increase rounds before you continue. If it feels loose, work two fewer rounds and move on to the legs.

The openwork version of this body uses a simple mesh: replace Rnds 5 to 10 with (ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st) repeated around, which gives an airy, lacy fabric that is perfect for beach cover ups. The solid version above is better for everyday wear, and you can mix the two by working mesh on the outer sides only.

Part 2: Leg Openings and Legs

Splitting the body into two legs is the moment these shorts stop looking like a tube and start looking like shorts. Take your time here, because a neat split means a comfortable fit.

Fold the body flat so the front and back are even. Count the total stitches and mark the center front and center back with stitch markers. The two side points, halfway between the markers, are where the legs will split. Count the stitches between the side markers on the front and on the back, and make sure both sides have the same number.

Legs (work each leg separately)

Attach yarn at one side marker with a sl st.

• Rnd 1: ch 3, dc in each st around the leg opening, working across the front to the other side marker and then across the back to the start. Join with a sl st. (69 (80, 90, 99) sts)
• Rnd 2: ch 3, dc in each st around. Join.
• Rnd 3: ch 3, (dc in next 7 sts, dec) rep around. Join. (61 (71, 80, 88) sts)
• Rnds 4 to 6: ch 3, dc in each st around. Join.

Each leg should now measure about 3 inches from the split. Try the shorts on again and check the length. If you want longer shorts, add more rounds here before the hem. If you want shorter shorts, work fewer rounds, but always finish with at least two plain rounds so the hem has a clean edge.

Repeat the same leg instructions for the second leg, starting at the other side marker.

Joining the Crotch

The small gap where the two legs meet is closed with a few stitches of yarn and a tapestry needle. Turn the shorts inside out, pinch the gap closed, and sew it with a matching yarn tail using a whip stitch. Weave the end in on the inside, and turn the shorts right side out. The join should be flat and invisible from the outside.

Part 3: Drawstring, Hem, and Fitting

The drawstring and the scalloped hem are the finishing touches that turn a crochet tube into a pair of shorts you will reach for all summer.

Drawstring

With accent color yarn, ch 120 (130, 140, 150). Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off and weave in the ends. Thread the drawstring through the top row of the waistband using a tapestry needle or a safety pin, starting and ending at the center front, and tie the ends in a small bow. For a sturdier cord, work the drawstring in two strands held together.

Scalloped Hem (work on each leg)

Attach accent color yarn at the leg opening with a sl st.

• Rnd 1: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a sl st.
• Rnd 2: ch 1, (sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sl st in next st) rep around. Join and fasten off.

The scallops should sit flat and even around the leg. If they pull in, work the hem with a hook one size larger. If they flare out, go down a hook size.

Final Fitting

Try the shorts on one last time. The waistband should sit where you want it without slipping, the body should feel relaxed, and the legs should move freely when you walk and sit. Pull the drawstring snug and tie it, then check the length in a mirror. Weave in any remaining ends on the inside of the shorts, and give the shorts a gentle steam with an iron held a few inches above the fabric to even out the stitches. Do not press the iron directly onto the crochet, because it can flatten the texture.

Variations: Colors, Lengths, and Stripes

• Striped beach shorts: change color every two rounds in the body for bold horizontal stripes. Carry the unused yarn up the inside of the work to avoid extra ends to weave in.
• Longer Bermuda length: add 4 to 6 rounds to each leg before the hem for a knee skimming length that still feels summery. Our crochet cardigan sweater pattern makes a light layer to wear over longer shorts on cool evenings.
• Granny square side panels: work two small granny squares and sew one to each outer side of the body for a patchwork look. Our easy granny square pattern has a simple square that works perfectly for this.
• Boho fringe hem: skip the scalloped hem and add short strands of yarn around each leg opening instead, knotted in place, for a festival look.
• Matching set: pair these shorts with the crochet mini skirt pattern in the same yarn for a coordinated summer outfit, or try a crochet tapestry pattern bag to carry your beach things.

If you love wearable crochet, a crochet mandala pattern is a relaxing next project that uses many of the same stitches in a flat, decorative form.

Troubleshooting Shorts That Sag or Pinch

• My shorts sag at the waist. The waistband is too loose, or the yarn is too stretchy. Tighten the drawstring, or rework the waistband two inches shorter so the ribbing has to stretch to fit you.
• The body pinches at the hips. You need more stitches in the body. Add an extra increase round after Rnd 2, or go up one size and use the drawstring to take in the waist.
• One leg is longer than the other. Count the rounds on each leg and add rounds to the shorter one until they match. Always count from the split, not from the hem.
• The crotch gap shows. Sew the gap closed from the inside with a few more whip stitches, and check that the leg split was centered before you sew.
• The scalloped hem flares out. The hem was worked too loosely. Rework the hem round with a smaller hook, or skip every other scallop and space them further apart.
• My shorts grew after washing. Cotton relaxes when it gets wet. Wash the shorts, reshape them while damp, and let them dry flat. Next time, make the waistband one inch shorter to allow for stretch.

Care Instructions

Hand wash your shorts in cool water with a tiny amount of mild soap, squeeze gently without wringing, and roll them in a clean towel to remove extra water. Reshape while damp and lay flat to dry, away from direct sunlight. Do not machine wash or tumble dry cotton crochet, because the agitation stretches the stitches and the heat can shrink the yarn. Store folded, not hung, so the waistband keeps its shape.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this crochet shorts pattern good for beginners?

Yes, it is a great first garment. You need to know chains, single crochet, half double crochet, and double crochet, plus working in the round. The waistband is simple ribbing, the body is straight rounds, and the pattern tells you exactly when to try the shorts on, so the fit is easy to control.

What yarn is best for crochet shorts?

Cotton or a cotton blend in DK or light worsted weight is best, because it is cool, breathable, and holds its shape. Acrylic works too, but it is warmer, so save it for spring and autumn. Avoid fuzzy or novelty yarns, because they hide the stitch pattern and make the shorts hard to wash.

How do I know what size to make?

Measure your waist where you want the waistband to sit and match it to the size list: S fits 28 inches, M fits 32, L fits 36, and XL fits 40. If you are between sizes, make the larger one, because the drawstring lets you pull the waist in.

Can I make the shorts longer or shorter?

Absolutely. The leg length is set by the number of rounds in Part 2, so add rounds for Bermuda length or work fewer rounds for a shorter cut. Keep at least two plain rounds before the hem so the edge stays neat.

Will the shorts stretch out when I wear them?

Cotton stretches a little with wear, especially at the waist. The ribbed waistband and the drawstring control most of it. If your shorts feel loose after a day of wear, wash them and let them dry flat, and they will spring back to size.

Can I sell shorts made from this pattern?

Yes, you may sell finished shorts made from this free pattern, with credit to Little Loop Finds. Please do not sell or republish the pattern text itself.

Do I need a lining for crochet shorts?

No lining is needed for the solid version of this pattern, because the double crochet fabric is dense enough for everyday wear. If you work the openwork mesh version, wear the shorts over a swimsuit or a light slip, or add a simple fabric lining to the front panel.

Happy stitching, and may your summer be full of sunshine, soft cotton yarn, and shorts that fit just right.