Free crochet moose pattern: cuddly woodland moose

If you have been looking for a free crochet moose pattern that is cute, cuddly, and genuinely fun to make, this woodland moose is the one. He is worked in soft brown yarn with a cream muzzle and belly, sturdy dark brown antlers, and a little red bow tie. The whole moose is built from simple amigurumi shapes, mostly spheres and ovals, so if you can single crochet in the round and work a basic increase and decrease, you can make him. He sits up on his own, perfect for a nursery shelf or a woodland baby shower gift.

Why you'll love this free crochet moose pattern

Most amigurumi moose patterns are either so tiny that the antlers take longer than the body, or so big and floppy that the moose cannot sit up. This pattern dodges both: the body is a firm oval that sits flat on its base, and the antlers are short, chunky branches that hold their shape.

The colourwork is simple: the cream muzzle and belly patch are sewn on at the end, so there is no fiddly colour changing mid-round.

He is also a stash buster: the body uses less than one full ball of brown yarn. If you love woodland animals, our crochet reindeer pattern is the natural next project, and the highland cow crochet pattern uses the same sturdy sitting shape.

Materials you'll need

A smooth acrylic or acrylic-blend worsted is the best pick here: it holds the stuffing shape and survives the washing machine on a gentle cycle. Avoid fluffy or eyelash yarn for your first moose: it hides your stitches and makes counting rounds much harder.

Yarn amounts by size (approximate): Small — A: 120 yds, B: 35 yds, C: 30 yds, D: 10 yds. Medium — A: 180 yds, B: 50 yds, C: 40 yds, D: 15 yds. Large — A: 260 yds, B: 70 yds, C: 55 yds, D: 20 yds.

A note on safety eyes: safety eyes are not safe for babies under three, who can chew them loose. If this moose is for a baby, embroider the eyes instead with black yarn or a French knot.

Size, gauge and skill level

The moose is worked in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round and move it up as you go.

• Finished size (medium): about 11 in (28 cm) tall sitting and 7 in (18 cm) wide at the belly.
• Gauge: 18 sc and 20 rounds = 4 in (10 cm) with a 3.5 mm hook, worked in the round. Your stitches should be tight enough that the stuffing does not show through: if you can see white fiberfill peeking between stitches, drop down half a hook size.
• Skill level: advanced beginner. You should know how to chain, single crochet, increase, and decrease, and how to work a magic ring. The antlers use short rows of single crochet and a little shaping, all explained round by round.

If this is your first amigurumi, read the whole pattern once before you start. Counting is the whole secret: match the number in brackets at the end of each round.

Abbreviations — US terms

A note on invisible decreases: work them through the front loops only of the next two stitches. They lie much flatter than a standard sc2tog and keep the shaping smooth.

The pattern (US terms)

Work all pieces in continuous rounds unless a row is stated. Stuff firmly as you go.

Body

With color A and your hook, start with a magic ring.

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
• Round 2: inc in each st around. [12]
• Round 3: (sc, inc) 6 times. [18]
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) 6 times. [24]
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) 6 times. [30]
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) 6 times. [36]
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) 6 times. [42]
• Round 8: (6 sc, inc) 6 times. [48]
• Rounds 9–14: sc in each st around. [48]
• Round 15: (6 sc, dec) 6 times. [42]
• Round 16: (5 sc, dec) 6 times. [36]
• Round 17: sc in each st around. [36]
• Round 18: (4 sc, dec) 6 times. [30]
• Round 19: (3 sc, dec) 6 times. [24]
• Round 20: (2 sc, dec) 6 times. [18]

Begin stuffing the body now, pushing the stuffing into the bottom first so the base is flat and the moose sits level.

• Round 21: (sc, dec) 6 times. [12]
• Round 22: dec 6 times. [6]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread the tail through the front loops of the final 6 stitches, pull closed, and weave in the end. Set the body aside.

For the small size, stop the increases at Round 7 ([42]) and close at Round 18. For the large size, add one more increase round, (7 sc, inc) 6 times [54], and close at Round 26.

Head

The head is worked in color A. Start with a magic ring.

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
• Round 2: inc in each st around. [12]
• Round 3: (sc, inc) 6 times. [18]
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) 6 times. [24]
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) 6 times. [30]
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) 6 times. [36]
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) 6 times. [42]
• Rounds 8–13: sc in each st around. [42]
• Round 14: (5 sc, dec) 6 times. [36]
• Round 15: (4 sc, dec) 6 times. [30]
• Round 16: (3 sc, dec) 6 times. [24]

Place the safety eyes now: insert them between Rounds 10 and 11, about 7 stitches apart. Stuff the head firmly, keeping it round.

• Round 17: (2 sc, dec) 6 times. [18]
• Round 18: (sc, dec) 6 times. [12]
• Round 19: dec 6 times. [6]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing, and close the hole the same way as the body.

Muzzle

The muzzle is a flattened oval in cream (B) that sits on the lower front of the head.

• Round 1: ch 7. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, 3 sc in last ch, then working along the other side of the chain, sc in next 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch. [14]
• Round 2: inc, 4 sc, inc in next 3 sts, 4 sc, inc in next 2 sts. [20]
• Round 3: sc, inc, 4 sc, (sc, inc) 3 times, 4 sc, (sc, inc) 2 times. [26]
• Rounds 4–5: sc in each st around. [26]
• Round 6: (sc, dec) 8 times, 2 sc. [18]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the muzzle very lightly, pin it to the lower front of the head under the eyes, and sew it on. Embroider two tiny nostrils, a short line between them, and a small smile curve.

Belly patch

With color B, work a flat oval in rows for the cream patch on the front of the body.

• Row 1: ch 9. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. [8]
• Row 2: ch 1, turn, inc, 6 sc, inc. [10]
• Row 3: ch 1, turn, inc, 8 sc, inc. [12]
• Rows 4–7: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. [12]
• Row 8: ch 1, turn, dec, 8 sc, dec. [10]
• Row 9: ch 1, turn, dec, 6 sc, dec. [8]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Pin the patch to the front centre of the body, about 2 rounds below the neck, and sew it on. Do not stuff it: it lies flat.

Ears — make 2

With color A, work in the round.

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
• Round 2: (sc, inc) 3 times. [9]
• Round 3: (2 sc, inc) 3 times. [12]
• Rounds 4–6: sc in each st around. [12]
• Round 7: (2 sc, dec) 3 times. [9]

Flatten the ear, do not stuff it, and fasten off leaving a long tail. Pinch the base into a slight fold before sewing so the ear stands up at a jaunty angle. Sew the ears to the sides of the head, about 4 rounds above the eyes.

Antlers — make 2

Each antler has a main stem and two short branches in dark brown (C). Work the stem first, then the branches, then sew them together.

Main stem: ch 2, work in continuous rounds.

• Round 1: 5 sc in MR. [5]
• Rounds 2–8: sc in each st around. [5]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Leave the stem unstuffed: the yarn alone holds the shape.

Branches — make 2 per antler (4 total): each branch is a short tube.

• Round 1: 4 sc in MR. [4]
• Rounds 2–4: sc in each st around. [4]

Fasten off, leaving a tail. Sew one branch to the front of the stem about halfway up and the second to the top of the stem, pointing up and outward. Sew the finished antler to the top of the head, just behind each ear, branches facing forward. The two antlers should mirror each other.

Tip: if an antler flops, run a short length of craft wire or a pipe cleaner up the inside of the stem.

Legs — make 4

The legs are short tubes. With color A:

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR. [6]
• Round 2: inc in each st around. [12]
• Rounds 3–8: sc in each st around. [12]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff each leg firmly, then sew two legs to the front bottom of the body and two to the back bottom, spaced evenly so the moose sits level.

Arms — make 2

With color A:

• Round 1: 5 sc in MR. [5]
• Round 2: (sc, inc) 2 times, sc. [7]
• Rounds 3–7: sc in each st around. [7]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the lower half of each arm lightly and leave the top half empty so the arm lies flat against the body. Sew the arms to the sides of the body, just below the neck.

Bow tie

With red (D), work the bow in rows.

• Row 1: ch 13. Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across. [11]
• Rows 2–3: ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in each st across. [11]

Fasten off. Wrap red yarn tightly around the centre of the rectangle about 8 times, pull it snug so it pinches into a bow shape, and knot it at the back. Sew the bow tie to the front of the neck, centred under the chin.

Finishing touches

Sew the head to the top of the body now, pinning it first and checking the face from the front and the side. Sew around the join twice, then weave in the tail.

Check the sit. Set the moose on a flat table: he should sit upright without leaning or tipping forward. If he tips, the head is sewn too far forward.

Steam the antlers. Hold a steam iron an inch above the antlers (never press it down) and gently bend them into shape while they are warm. Let them cool in position and they will hold the curve.

Weave in every end. Work each tail into the stuffing for at least 2 in, changing direction once so it cannot wriggle out.

Three cute variations to try next

Once you have made one moose, the same body shape makes a whole forest:

1. Christmas moose. Swap the red bow tie for a tiny green scarf with a white stripe, and sew a small red pom-pom on top of the head between the antlers. He looks perfect under the tree next to our free crochet Santa pattern.
2. Baby moose (calf). Make the small size, skip the antlers, and sew on two slightly larger ears instead. A calf with no antlers and big ears is the safest version for a baby's crib, especially with embroidered eyes. Pair it with our free crochet bunny pattern for a woodland nursery set.
3. Plaid lumberjack moose. Work the belly patch in red and cream stripes instead of plain cream, and add a tiny checked scarf. The stripes are just two-row colour changes on the flat belly patch. The crochet fox pattern in rusty orange makes a perfect forest companion.

And if this moose gave you the amigurumi bug, the crochet dragon pattern is the next step up, or keep it gentle with the free crochet duck pattern, a quick one-evening make.

Troubleshooting tips

• Your moose will not sit up straight. Push the stuffing down toward the base and flatten it with your palm, then check the legs: all four should touch the table at the same time.
• The stuffing shows through the stitches. Your hook is too big for your yarn, or you are stuffing too hard. Drop down half a hook size.
• The head is wobbly on the neck. Sew around the neck twice, and add a few stitches through the centre of the join from front to back to anchor the head.
• The antlers flop forward. Shorten the stem by one round, or add a pipe cleaner inside the stem before sewing it on.
• The muzzle looks lopsided. Always pin the muzzle and look at the face from arm's length before you sew: a millimetre off at pinning time looks like a centimetre once it is sewn.
• The eyes are not level. Mark the eye positions with pins before you insert the safety eyes. Once a safety eye is clicked in, it cannot be moved without cutting the washer off.

Frequently asked questions

Is this free crochet moose pattern really free?

Yes, the complete pattern above is free: no email signup, no PDF purchase required.

What skill level is this moose pattern?

Advanced beginner. If you can single crochet in the round, work increases and decreases, and sew pieces together, you have every skill this pattern needs.

How long does it take to make?

About 5–6 hours for the medium size: roughly 3 hours for the body and head, and 2 hours for the smaller pieces, antlers, and assembly.

How much yarn do I need?

For the medium moose, about 180 yds of brown, 50 yds of cream, 40 yds of dark brown, and 15 yds of red in worsted-weight yarn.

Is this moose safe for a baby?

Yes, with two changes: embroider the eyes instead of using safety eyes, and sew the bow tie on very firmly with no loose ends.

Can I sell the finished moose I make?

Yes! You may sell finished moose made from this pattern in small batches. Please credit Little Loop Finds as the pattern designer with a link back to this page.

Can I make the moose bigger?

Yes. Use the large size and a 4.0 mm hook, or hold two strands of worsted together with a 5.5 mm hook for a giant moose about 18 in tall. Sew the head on with two rounds of stitches so it stays secure.

More free patterns to try

If this moose was fun, keep the hook moving. The crochet reindeer pattern is the moose's festive cousin, the highland cow crochet pattern uses the same sturdy sitting shape, the crochet fox pattern makes a perfect forest companion, and the free crochet bunny pattern is a quick one-evening friend.