Crochet Tank Top Pattern (Free Summer Top)

A crochet tank top is the summer staple every handmade wardrobe needs. Light, breathable, and easy to layer, this classic sleeveless tank top works for warm days, beach trips, and relaxed evenings at home. This free crochet tank top pattern walks you through every step, from the back panel to the front panel, the straps, and the finishing edging.

This is an original Little Loop Finds design, written in US terms and completely free. The tank top is a classic sleeveless top with a straight hem, a scoop neckline, and wide shoulder straps. It is worked flat in two panels and seamed at the sides and shoulders, so there is no tricky shaping in the round and no fussy fitting. If you can chain, double crochet, and work a simple decrease, you can crochet this tank top.

A quick note on scope: this post is about one specific garment, a classic full length sleeveless summer tank top with a straight hem that sits at the hip. It is not a cropped top and it is not swimwear. If you want a shorter style, our crochet crop top pattern is a separate pattern. If you want a different neckline, our crochet top pattern is another option. This pattern is the classic tank top, made to wear with jeans, shorts, or a skirt.

Key Takeaways

• Free original pattern: this crochet tank top pattern is a Little Loop Finds original design, written in US terms, and completely free.
• A classic sleeveless tank top: a straight hip length hem, a scoop neckline, and wide shoulder straps, worked flat in two panels.
• Beginner friendly garment: simple double crochet and half double crochet, with a stitch count at the end of every row.
• Sizes included: the pattern covers sizes Small through Extra Large, with clear stitch counts for every size.
• Wear it everywhere: make it in cotton for hot days, or layer it under a cardigan when the evening cools down.

Table of Contents

• Why You Will Love This Crochet Tank Top
• Finished Size, Skill Level, and Time
• Materials You Need
• Abbreviations (US Terms)
• Gauge and Sizing Notes
• Part 1: The Back Panel
• Part 2: The Front Panel and Neckline
• Part 3: Straps, Seaming, and Edging
• Variations: Colors, Lengths, and Stitches
• Troubleshooting Tank Tops That Gape or Grow
• Care Instructions
• Frequently Asked Questions

Why You Will Love This Crochet Tank Top

A handmade tank top is one of the most satisfying garments to crochet, because you can finish it in a weekend and wear it all summer. There is no sleeve shaping to wrestle with, no button band to plan, and no complicated seaming. Two flat panels, two straps, and a neat row of edging are all it takes. The result looks like a shop bought top, with the soft drape and airy feel that only crochet can give.

Finished Size, Skill Level, and Time

• Finished size: bust 38 (42, 46, 50) inches, length 22 (23, 24, 25) inches from shoulder to hem, for sizes Small (Medium, Large, Extra Large). The pattern is written for a hip length top with a straight hem.
• Skill level: Easy to Intermediate. You need chains, slip stitches, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, and a simple decrease.
• Time: about 6 to 8 hours per top: roughly 2.5 hours for the back panel, 3 hours for the front panel and neckline, and 1 to 2 hours for the straps, seaming, and edging.

Materials You Need

Cotton yarn is the best choice for a summer tank top, because it is breathable, it drapes nicely, and it holds its shape in warm weather. A smooth DK weight cotton or cotton blend works well, because it shows clean stitch definition and it washes easily. Avoid heavy wool or fuzzy yarns for this project, because they are too warm for a summer top and they hide the stitch pattern.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• dc2tog = double crochet 2 stitches together, a decrease
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

Gauge and Sizing Notes

Gauge for a garment matters more than gauge for a toy, because the finished size depends on it. Work a swatch before you start the back panel. Chain 24, work 12 rows of double crochet, and measure the middle 4 inches of the swatch. You should count 16 double crochet stitches and 9 rows in 4 inches, using a 4.0 mm hook and DK weight yarn. If you have too many stitches in 4 inches, go up a hook size. If you have too few stitches, go down a hook size.

Part 1: The Back Panel

The back panel is a simple rectangle with armhole shaping at the top. It is worked flat from the hem up, in double crochet, with a half double crochet hem for a neat edge.

Back Panel

With your main color, ch 78 (86, 94, 102).

• Row 1 (RS): hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in each ch across, turn. (77 (85, 93, 101) hdc)
• Row 2: ch 3, counts as dc, dc in each st across, turn. (77 (85, 93, 101) dc)
• Row 3: ch 3, dc in each st across, turn. (77 (85, 93, 101) dc)
• Row 4: ch 3, dc in each st across, turn. (77 (85, 93, 101) dc)
• Row 5: ch 3, dc in each st across, turn. (77 (85, 93, 101) dc)
• Row 6: ch 3, dc in each st across, turn. (77 (85, 93, 101) dc)

The hem is now about 2 inches tall, and the panel should measure about 19 (21, 23, 25) inches wide. Check your width against the finished bust measurement for your size, and adjust your hook size if the panel is more than half an inch off.

• Rows 7-34 (7-36, 7-38, 7-40): ch 3, dc in each st across, turn. (77 (85, 93, 101) dc)

Your back panel should now measure about 15 (16, 17, 18) inches from the hem to the start of the armhole shaping. Lay it flat and smooth it gently, without stretching it, and measure from the hem to the top row.

Armhole Shaping

• Row 35 (37, 39, 41): ch 3, dc2tog, dc in each st across to the last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in the last st, turn. (75 (83, 91, 99) dc)
• Row 36 (38, 40, 42): ch 3, dc in each st across, turn. (75 (83, 91, 99) dc)
• Row 37 (39, 41, 43): ch 3, dc2tog, dc in each st across to the last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in the last st, turn. (73 (81, 89, 97) dc)
• Row 38 (40, 42, 44): ch 3, dc in each st across, turn. (73 (81, 89, 97) dc)
• Row 39 (41, 43, 45): ch 3, dc2tog, dc in each st across to the last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in the last st, turn. (71 (79, 87, 95) dc)
• Rows 40-46 (42-48, 44-50, 46-52): ch 3, dc in each st across, turn. (71 (79, 87, 95) dc)

Fasten off, leaving a tail of about 6 inches for weaving in. Your finished back panel should measure about 22 (23, 24, 25) inches long, with a gentle curve at each armhole. Set it aside while you work the front panel.

Part 2: The Front Panel and Neckline

The front panel starts exactly like the back panel, with the same hem and the same number of stitches. The difference is the scoop neckline, which is shaped at the top by working the two shoulder sections separately. Work the panel up to the neckline, then finish one shoulder, fasten off, and join the yarn to work the other shoulder.

Front Panel to the Neckline

With your main color, ch 78 (86, 94, 102).

• Row 1 (RS): hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in each ch across, turn. (77 (85, 93, 101) hdc)
• Rows 2-34 (2-36, 2-38, 2-40): ch 3, dc in each st across, turn. (77 (85, 93, 101) dc)

Work the armhole shaping exactly as for the back panel, rows 35-39 (37-41, 39-43, 41-45), decreasing at each end on alternate rows, until you have 71 (79, 87, 95) stitches.

• Rows 40-42 (42-44, 44-46, 46-48): ch 3, dc in each st across, turn. (71 (79, 87, 95) dc)

Your front panel should now measure about 19 (20, 21, 22) inches from the hem. The neckline shaping starts here, about 3 inches below the top of the back panel, which gives the scoop its depth.

Scoop Neckline, Left Shoulder

The neckline is shaped by leaving the center stitches unworked and working each shoulder on its own. Count carefully here, because the two shoulders must match.

• Row 43 (45, 47, 49): ch 3, dc in the next 22 (25, 28, 31) sts, dc2tog, turn, leaving the remaining stitches unworked. (24 (27, 30, 33) dc)
• Row 44 (46, 48, 50): ch 3, dc2tog, dc in each st across, turn. (23 (26, 29, 32) dc)
• Row 45 (47, 49, 51): ch 3, dc in each st across to the last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in the last st, turn. (22 (25, 28, 31) dc)
• Rows 46-47 (48-49, 50-51, 52-53): ch 3, dc in each st across, turn. (22 (25, 28, 31) dc)

Fasten off, leaving a tail of about 6 inches for weaving in. This is the left shoulder. Mark it with a stitch marker, so you do not mix it up with the right shoulder.

Scoop Neckline, Right Shoulder

Join the yarn with a slip stitch in the first unworked stitch on the opposite side of the neckline, skipping the center 23 (25, 27, 29) stitches. Work the right shoulder as a mirror of the left shoulder.

• Row 43 (45, 47, 49): ch 3, dc2tog, dc in each st across, turn. (24 (27, 30, 33) dc)
• Row 44 (46, 48, 50): ch 3, dc in each st across to the last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in the last st, turn. (23 (26, 29, 32) dc)
• Row 45 (47, 49, 51): ch 3, dc2tog, dc in each st across, turn. (22 (25, 28, 31) dc)
• Rows 46-47 (48-49, 50-51, 52-53): ch 3, dc in each st across, turn. (22 (25, 28, 31) dc)

Fasten off, leaving a tail of about 6 inches for weaving in. Your front panel should now have a scoop neckline about 6 inches deep and 7 (8, 9, 10) inches wide at the top. Lay the front and back panels together and check that the shoulders line up.

Part 3: Straps, Seaming, and Edging

Seaming the Shoulders and Sides

Lay the front and back panels together with the right sides facing each other. Pin the shoulder seams, matching the stitch counts, and sew them with a whip stitch using a tapestry needle and the main yarn. Then pin the side seams from the hem up to the bottom of the armhole, leaving the armhole open, and sew them the same way.

Turn the top right side out and try it on. The armholes should sit comfortably without gaping, and the hem should sit at your hip. If the top feels too loose, take the side seams in by half an inch on each side. If it feels too tight, let the side seams out, or go up a size next time.

Straps

The straps are worked directly onto the top of each shoulder, so there is no extra sewing. Each strap is about 1.5 inches wide and long enough to sit comfortably on the shoulder.

With the right side facing, join the yarn with a slip stitch at the outer edge of the left shoulder seam.

• Row 1: ch 1, sc in each st across the shoulder, turn. (22 (25, 28, 31) sc)
• Row 2: ch 1, sc in the first 6 sts, turn, leaving the remaining stitches unworked. (6 sc)
• Rows 3-10: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (6 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Sew the end of the strap to the top of the back panel, matching the shoulder seam, with a whip stitch. Repeat for the right shoulder, and repeat both straps on the back panel if you want wider straps, or leave the back straps off for a classic tank top look.

Neckline and Armhole Edging

With the right side facing, join the yarn with a slip stitch at the center back of the neckline. Work one round of single crochet evenly around the neckline, placing one single crochet in each stitch and two single crochet in each corner, then join with a slip stitch and fasten off. Repeat around each armhole, working one round of single crochet evenly around the opening. Work one round of single crochet around the hem as well, if you want a firmer edge.

Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle, working the tails through the backs of several stitches so they do not show on the right side. Block the top lightly by laying it flat, smoothing it to the finished measurements, and letting it dry completely. Your tank top is done.

Variations: Colors, Lengths, and Stitches

• Classic white tank: work the whole top in white cotton for a crisp summer basic that goes with everything. Our crochet bikini pattern is a bolder summer piece in the same cotton yarn.
• Striped tank: change colors every 6 rows for soft stripes, carrying the unused yarn up the side seam. Our crochet bralette pattern free looks lovely in the same striped cotton.
• Longer tunic length: add 8 rows before the armhole shaping for a tunic that covers the hips. Our crochet vest pattern layers beautifully over a longer tank.
• Tank and bag set: make the tank in sage green, then crochet a matching market bag for the farmers market. Our crochet market bag pattern uses the same cotton yarn and a simple mesh stitch.

If you enjoyed making a garment, try another wearable next.

Troubleshooting Tank Tops That Gape or Grow

• My neckline gapes open. The neckline shaping was too wide, or the edging is too loose. Work the edging with a hook one size smaller, and add a second round of single crochet to pull the neckline in.
• My top grew longer after wearing it. Cotton stretches with wear, especially in a loose double crochet fabric. Wash and dry the top flat, and make the next one one inch shorter than you think you need.
• My armholes are too tight. The armhole decreases were worked too quickly. Work the decreases on alternate rows only, as written, and try the top on before you seam the sides.

Care Instructions

Hand wash a cotton crochet tank top gently in cool water with a tiny amount of mild soap, squeeze gently without wringing, and lay it flat to dry so the top keeps its shape and length. If the yarn label says machine washable, use a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag, and lay the top flat to dry. Do not put a cotton tank top in the dryer on high heat, because cotton can shrink and the stitches can tighten unevenly. Smooth the top to its finished measurements while it is damp, and keep it out of direct sunlight, so the colors stay bright.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this crochet tank top pattern good for beginners?

Yes, it is a good first garment pattern. You need chains, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, and a simple decrease, and every row ends with a stitch count. One top takes about 6 to 8 hours.

What yarn is best for a crochet tank top?

DK weight cotton or cotton blend yarn is the best choice, because it is breathable, it drapes nicely, and it holds its shape in warm weather. A smooth cotton yarn shows clean stitch definition and washes easily. Avoid heavy wool or fuzzy yarns, because they are too warm for a summer top.

How do I choose my size?

Measure your bust at its widest point, then pick the size with a finished bust about 2 inches larger than your measurement. For example, if your bust measures 36 inches, make the Small, which finishes at 38 inches. If you are between sizes, make the smaller size for a closer fit, or the larger size for a relaxed fit.

Is this tank top cropped?

No, this is a classic full length tank top with a straight hem that sits at the hip. It is not a cropped top and it is not swimwear. If you want a shorter style, try our crochet crop top pattern, which is a separate pattern.

How much yarn do I need for one tank top?

About 550 yards for a Small, 650 yards for a Medium, 750 yards for a Large, and 850 yards for an Extra Large, in DK weight cotton yarn. Buy one extra ball, so you do not run out halfway through the front panel.

Can I sell tank tops made from this pattern?

Yes, you may sell finished tank tops made from this free pattern, with credit to Little Loop Finds. Please do not sell or republish the pattern text itself.

Happy stitching, and may your new tank top be the one you reach for all summer long.