Crochet Shark Pattern (Free Amigurumi)
Crochet a classic great white style shark amigurumi with a grey top, white belly, dorsal fin, and tail fin, then display it or gift it.

Patterns · Crochet
- Finished size
- 10 in long, 4 in wide
- Making time
- 3 hours per shark
- Hook
- US H-8 (5.0 mm)
- Set
- Body, fins, face
- Skill
- Easy
In this post
- Key Takeaways
- Table of Contents
- Why You Will Love This Crochet Shark
- Finished Size, Skill Level, and Time
- Materials You Need
- Abbreviations (US Terms)
- Gauge and Sizing Notes
- Part 1: The Shark Body
- Part 2: Tail Fin, Dorsal Fin, and Pectoral Fins
- Part 3: Belly Patch, Eyes, and Assembly
- Variations: Colors, Sizes, and Uses
- Troubleshooting Sharks That Lean or Wobble
- Care Instructions
- Frequently Asked Questions
A crochet shark is one of the most fun amigurumi projects you can make. A grey back, a white belly, a tall dorsal fin, and a friendly smile, all in a plush you can finish in an evening. This free crochet shark pattern walks you through every part, from the long body to the tail fin and the little pectoral fins.
This is an original Little Loop Finds design, written in US terms and completely free. The shark is a classic great white style amigurumi plush, worked in the round from the nose to the tail, with separate fins and a belly patch sewn on at the end. If you can crochet a magic ring, a single crochet increase, and a decrease, you can crochet this shark.
A quick note on scope: this post is about one specific shark amigurumi plush, a classic great white style shark with a grey top, a white belly, and a pointed dorsal fin. It is not a hammerhead shark. If you want that version, our crochet hammerhead shark pattern is a separate pattern with a wide flat head and eyes set far apart.
Key Takeaways
- Free original pattern: this crochet shark pattern is a Little Loop Finds original amigurumi design, written in US terms, and completely free.
- A classic great white style shark: a long grey body, a white belly patch, a tall dorsal fin, and a forked tail fin, with a stitch count at the end of every round.
- Beginner friendly amigurumi: simple single crochet shaping, with the fins and face explained step by step.
- Quick evening project: one shark takes about 3 hours, and it uses about 160 yards of worsted weight yarn.
- Endlessly giftable: make it in grey, blue grey, or pale grey for birthdays, baby showers, and ocean themed rooms.
Table of Contents
- Why You Will Love This Crochet Shark
- Finished Size, Skill Level, and Time
- Materials You Need
- Abbreviations (US Terms)
- Gauge and Sizing Notes
- Part 1: The Shark Body
- Part 2: Tail Fin, Dorsal Fin, and Pectoral Fins
- Part 3: Belly Patch, Eyes, and Assembly
- Variations: Colors, Sizes, and Uses
- Troubleshooting Sharks That Lean or Wobble
- Care Instructions
- Frequently Asked Questions
Why You Will Love This Crochet Shark
There is something about a shark that makes people grin. Maybe it is the friendly smile, or the way a little plush shark looks brave and cuddly at the same time. A crochet shark sits on a nursery shelf, guards a desk, or waits in a gift basket, and it always gets picked up and hugged.
A crochet shark is also a wonderful way to learn amigurumi. The body teaches you how to increase and decrease in the round, the fins teach you flat triangle shaping, and the face teaches you how to place eyes and stitch a smile. Every round ends with a stitch count, and the shark is forgiving.
Finished Size, Skill Level, and Time
- Finished size: about 10 inches long and 4 inches wide after stuffing, in worsted weight yarn, not counting the tail fin.
- Skill level: Easy. You need a magic ring, chains, slip stitches, single crochet, increases, and invisible decreases.
- Time: about 3 hours per shark: roughly 1.5 hours for the body and 1.5 hours for the fins, face, and assembly.

Materials You Need
| Item | What to get |
|---|---|
| Yarn, body | Worsted weight (size 4) yarn in grey, about 110 yards |
| Yarn, belly | Worsted weight (size 4) yarn in white, about 40 yards |
| Yarn, accent | Worsted weight (size 4) yarn in dark grey, about 10 yards |
| Hook | US H-8 (5.0 mm), or the size that gives you tight stitches with no stuffing showing through |
| Eyes | Two 12 mm black safety eyes with washers |
| Stuffing | Polyester fiberfill, about 5 ounces per shark |
| Notions | Tapestry needle, scissors, stitch markers, pins, black embroidery floss |
Worsted weight yarn is the best choice for a shark amigurumi because it works up quickly, the stitches are tight enough to hold the stuffing inside, and the finished shark is soft but firm. A smooth acrylic or cotton blend shows clean stitch definition and washes easily. Avoid fuzzy yarns, because they hide the shaping. Pick any grey you like, from soft dove grey to a deeper slate.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- inc = increase, 2 sc in the same stitch
- dec = decrease, single crochet 2 stitches together
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rnd(s) = round(s)
- rep = repeat
- MR = magic ring
Gauge and Sizing Notes
Gauge for an amigurumi shark is about keeping the stuffing inside, not about hitting an exact number. Work the first 5 rounds of the body and look at the fabric. You should not be able to see through the stitches, and the fabric should feel firm, not loose and holey. If you can see daylight through your stitches, go down a hook size. If the fabric is stiff and hard to work, go up a hook size.
To make a smaller shark, use DK weight yarn with a 4.0 mm hook and 10 mm safety eyes for a piece about 7 inches long. To make a larger shark, use bulky weight yarn with a 6.5 mm hook and 15 mm safety eyes for a piece about 13 inches long. The stitch counts stay the same in every size.
Part 1: The Shark Body
The body is worked in the round from the nose to the tail, starting with a magic ring and increasing out to the widest part, then working even before decreasing to a narrow tail end. Work in a continuous spiral and mark the first stitch of every round with a stitch marker.
Body
With grey yarn, MR, ch 1.
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6 sc)
- Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12 sc)
- Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) rep 6 times. (18 sc)
- Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st) rep 6 times. (24 sc)
- Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st) rep 6 times. (30 sc)
- Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st) rep 6 times. (36 sc)
- Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 sts, inc in next st) rep 6 times. (42 sc)
- Rnd 8-16: sc in each st around. (42 sc)
The body should now look like a long rounded tube about 7 inches long, with a rounded nose and an even width through the middle.
- Rnd 17: (sc in next 5 sts, dec) rep 6 times. (36 sc)
- Rnd 18: sc in each st around. (36 sc)
- Rnd 19: (sc in next 4 sts, dec) rep 6 times. (30 sc)
- Rnd 20: sc in each st around. (30 sc)
- Rnd 21: (sc in next 3 sts, dec) rep 6 times. (24 sc)
- Rnd 22: sc in each st around. (24 sc)
- Rnd 23: (sc in next 2 sts, dec) rep 6 times. (18 sc)
- Rnd 24: (sc in next st, dec) rep 6 times. (12 sc)
Stop here and stuff the body firmly, pushing the fiberfill into the nose first so the head holds its rounded shape. Add a little more than you think you need, because fiberfill settles with use.
- Rnd 25: dec 6 times. (6 sc)
- Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Weave the tail through the front loops of the last 6 stitches, pull it tight to close the hole, and weave in the end.
Your finished body should be about 10 inches long, with a rounded nose, a wide middle, and a gently tapered tail end.
Belly Patch
The belly patch is a flat white oval, sewn onto the underside of the body for the classic two tone great white look.
With white yarn, ch 9.
- Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each ch across, turn. (8 sc)
- Row 2: ch 1, inc in the first st, sc in next 6 sts, inc in the last st, turn. (10 sc)
- Row 3: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (10 sc)
- Row 4: ch 1, inc in the first st, sc in next 8 sts, inc in the last st, turn. (12 sc)
- Rows 5-12: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (12 sc)
- Row 13: ch 1, dec, sc in next 8 sts, dec, turn. (10 sc)
- Row 14: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (10 sc)
- Row 15: ch 1, dec, sc in next 6 sts, dec, turn. (8 sc)
- Row 16: ch 1, sc in each st across. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. (8 sc)
The belly patch should be about 5 inches long and 2.5 inches wide.

Part 2: Tail Fin, Dorsal Fin, and Pectoral Fins
The fins are flat triangles worked in rows. Make one dorsal fin, two tail lobes, and two pectoral fins, and keep the tails long for sewing.
Dorsal Fin
The dorsal fin is the tall triangle on the shark's back.
With grey yarn, ch 7.
- Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each ch across, turn. (6 sc)
- Row 2: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (6 sc)
- Row 3: ch 1, dec, sc in next 2 sts, dec, turn. (4 sc)
- Row 4: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (4 sc)
- Row 5: ch 1, dec, dec, turn. (2 sc)
- Row 6: ch 1, dec. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. (1 sc)
The dorsal fin should be about 2.5 inches tall and 2 inches wide at the base, sewn onto the top of the body about halfway along the length.
Tail Fin Lobes (make 2)
The tail fin has two lobes, worked the same way and sewn together at the base.
With grey yarn, ch 6.
- Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each ch across, turn. (5 sc)
- Row 2: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (5 sc)
- Row 3: ch 1, dec, sc in next st, dec, turn. (3 sc)
- Row 4: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (3 sc)
- Row 5: ch 1, dec, sc in next st, turn. (2 sc)
- Row 6: ch 1, dec. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. (1 sc)
Each tail lobe is a slim triangle about 2.5 inches long. Sew the two lobes together at the base, one pointing up and one pointing down, then sew the joined fin onto the closed tail end.
Pectoral Fins (make 2)
The pectoral fins are small side fins, sewn on just behind the belly patch.
With grey yarn, ch 6.
- Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each ch across, turn. (5 sc)
- Rows 2-4: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (5 sc)
- Row 5: ch 1, dec, sc in next st, dec, turn. (3 sc)
- Row 6: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (3 sc)
- Row 7: ch 1, dec, sc in next st, turn. (2 sc)
- Row 8: ch 1, dec. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. (1 sc)
Each pectoral fin is a small slim triangle about 2 inches long.
Part 3: Belly Patch, Eyes, and Assembly
Assembly is where the shark comes to life. Pin every part in place before you sew anything, then step back and check the shark from the front and the side. The dorsal fin should sit straight up, the tail fin should sit centered, and the eyes should sit level. Moving a pin is easy, but moving a sewn seam is not.
Eyes
Push a 12 mm safety eye through the body on each side of the head, about 1.5 inches back from the nose and about 1 inch above the belly line, and fasten the washer on the inside before the body is fully stuffed. If you have already stuffed the body, push the eye posts through the stitches and fasten the washers while pressing the fiberfill aside with your fingers. The eyes should sit level with each other, so the shark looks friendly from every angle.
Mouth
Using black embroidery floss and a tapestry needle, stitch a gentle curved smile on the front of the nose, about half an inch below and between the eyes. Make the curve about 1.5 inches wide, with small stitches that sit neatly on the surface. A simple curved line is all you need for a friendly expression. For a toothy grin, add three tiny white stitches across the smile, but keep them small so they look like teeth, not fangs.
Assembly
Pin the belly patch to the underside of the body, centered, with its front about 1 inch back from the nose, and sew it on with a whip stitch all the way around. Pin the dorsal fin to the top of the body, about halfway along the length, and sew it on along the base only, so the fin stands up straight. Sew the joined tail fin onto the closed tail end, with the longer lobe pointing up. Pin the pectoral fins to the sides of the body, just behind the belly patch, angled slightly downward, and sew them on along the top edge only. Weave in all ends, and your shark is done.

Variations: Colors, Sizes, and Uses
- Classic grey shark: work the body in medium grey with a white belly, the colorway in the photos, for a great white style shark. Our crochet fish pattern makes a matching ocean friend.
- Blue grey shark: make the shark in blue grey with a cream belly for a calm nursery. Our free crochet dolphin pattern is another ocean amigurumi in the same size.
- Baby shark: work the shark in pale grey with a white belly and 10 mm eyes for a tiny shark. Our crochet octopus plush makes a sweet matching gift for the same nursery.
- Shark week party shark: make the shark in dark slate grey with a bright white belly for a bold party piece. Our crochet turtle patterns are another easy amigurumi in the same size.
- Shark family: make a large shark and two small sharks in matching colors for a family set. Change only the yarn weight and hook size, and the same pattern makes all three sizes.
Troubleshooting Sharks That Lean or Wobble
- My shark leans to one side. The stuffing is uneven, or the nose was not stuffed firmly enough. Add more fiberfill to the nose and check that the shark lies flat on a table.
- My dorsal fin flops over. The fin was sewn on along too narrow a base. Sew the base with a second row of stitches, and add a tiny pinch of fiberfill into the base for support.
- My eyes are not level. Always mark both eye spots with pins first, step back, and check them from the front before you push the posts through.
- My stuffing shows through the stitches. Your stitches are too loose for the yarn. Go down a hook size on the next shark.
Care Instructions
Hand wash a crochet shark gently in cool water with a tiny amount of mild soap, squeeze gently without wringing, and lay it flat to dry so it keeps its shape. If the yarn label says machine washable, use a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag, and lay it flat to dry. Do not put an amigurumi shark in the dryer on high heat, because the fiberfill can clump. Fluff the shark by hand after washing, keep it out of direct sunlight, and check the safety eyes now and then to make sure the washers are still tight.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is this crochet shark pattern good for beginners?
Yes, it is a great first amigurumi project. You need chains, single crochet, increases, and decreases, and every round ends with a stitch count.
What yarn is best for a crochet shark?
Worsted weight yarn is the best choice, because it works up quickly and the stitches are tight enough to hold the stuffing inside. A smooth acrylic or cotton blend washes easily. Avoid fuzzy yarns, because they hide the shaping.
How big is the finished shark?
About 10 inches long and 4 inches wide after stuffing, in worsted weight yarn with a 5.0 mm hook, not counting the tail fin. Use DK weight yarn for a small 7 inch version, or bulky weight yarn for a large 13 inch version.
Are safety eyes safe for babies?
Safety eyes are safe when installed correctly with the washer snapped firmly onto the post, but no toy is chew proof. For babies under three, many makers prefer embroidered eyes instead.
How much yarn do I need for one shark?
About 160 yards of worsted weight yarn in total: roughly 110 yards for the body, 40 yards for the belly, and 10 yards for the accents. A pair of sharks needs about 320 yards.
Can I sell sharks made from this pattern?
Yes, you may sell finished sharks made from this free pattern, with credit to Little Loop Finds. Please do not sell or republish the pattern text itself.
How is this different from the hammerhead shark pattern?
This shark is a classic great white style shark with a pointed nose, a grey top, a white belly, and a tall dorsal fin. The hammerhead has a wide flat head with eyes set far apart. Both are original Little Loop Finds designs.

Happy stitching, and may your little shark bring a brave little smile to whoever hugs it.


