Free crochet goat pattern: adorable farm amigurumi

If you have been looking for a free crochet goat pattern that is sweet, sturdy, and simple enough for a confident beginner, this little farm friend is the one. She is worked in soft cream yarn with tan patches, little curved horns, floppy ears, and dark safety eyes, and she stands about 9 inches tall when finished. She takes about three hours to make, which makes her perfect for a weekend project, a farm-themed nursery, or a cosy autumn make when you want something charming on your shelf by Sunday evening.

Why you'll love this free crochet goat pattern

Most crochet goat patterns fall into one of two traps: the horns are either so big and heavy that the head tips forward, or so tiny that the goat looks like a sheep. This pattern dodges both. The horns are small, curved, and lightly stuffed, so they sit neatly on top of the head without tipping it, and the floppy ears frame the face the way a real goat's ears do.

The construction is simple and forgiving. The body and head are worked as one piece from the bottom up, so there is no head-to-body seam to wobble, and the legs are short and sturdy so the goat stands on her own on a shelf, a bed, or a nursery chair. The patches are simple ovals sewn onto the body, so you can place them wherever you like, and the horns are just small cones worked in a spiral.

Materials you'll need

A smooth aran-weight acrylic yarn is the best pick here: it is soft, washable, and holds the stitch definition that makes the goat look neat. A fluffy yarn looks wonderfully goat-like, but it hides your stitches, so save it for a second goat once you know the pattern. Avoid very dark yarn for the body: the cream colour is what makes the tan patches pop.

Yarn amounts by size (approximate): Small (6 in tall) — 110 yds cream. Standard (9 in tall) — 170 yds cream. Large (12 in tall) — 240 yds cream. One 100 g ball of aran yarn (about 200 yds) makes one standard goat with yarn to spare.

Size, gauge and skill level

The goat is worked in a continuous spiral in single crochet. Do not join rounds; use a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round and move it up as you go.

• Finished size (standard): about 9 in (23 cm) tall standing, 5 in (13 cm) wide at the body. She stands on her own, with short legs and a sturdy base.
• Gauge: 18 sc and 20 rows = 4 in (10 cm) with a 3.5 mm hook. Gauge matters for amigurumi because loose stitches let the stuffing show through. Your stitches should be tight and even: if you can see stuffing between stitches, go down half a hook size.
• Skill level: confident beginner. You should know how to single crochet, increase, decrease, and work in a spiral. The pattern uses only single crochet and simple shaping, and every round tells you the stitch count.

Abbreviations — US terms

A note on the invisible decrease: work the decrease through the front loops only, which makes it nearly invisible and keeps the goat's shaping smooth.

The pattern (US terms)

Work the body and head as one piece from the bottom up, in a continuous spiral. Stuff firmly as you go, a little at a time, so the shaping stays smooth.

Body and head — one piece

With color A (cream) and a 3.5 mm hook, start with a magic ring.

• Round 1: 6 sc into the ring. [6]
• Round 2: inc in each st around. [12]
• Round 3: (sc in next st, inc) x 6. [18]
• Round 4: (sc in next 2 sts, inc) x 6. [24]
• Round 5: (sc in next 3 sts, inc) x 6. [30]
• Round 6: (sc in next 4 sts, inc) x 6. [36]
• Rounds 7–11: sc in each st around. [36]
• Round 12: (sc in next 4 sts, dec) x 6. [30]
• Round 13: (sc in next 3 sts, dec) x 6. [24]
• Round 14: (sc in next 2 sts, dec) x 6. [18]
• Round 15: (sc in next st, dec) x 6. [12]

Start stuffing the body now, firmly but not so hard that the stitches stretch open. Add small handfuls of stuffing and push them into the base first, then build upward so the body is evenly filled.

• Round 16: inc in each st around. [24]
• Round 17: (sc in next st, inc) x 12. [36]
• Round 18: (sc in next 2 sts, inc) x 12. [48]
• Rounds 19–25: sc in each st around. [48]
• Round 26: (sc in next 6 sts, dec) x 6. [42]
• Round 27: (sc in next 5 sts, dec) x 6. [36]
• Round 28: (sc in next 4 sts, dec) x 6. [30]

Place the safety eyes now, between Rounds 22 and 23, about 8 stitches apart, with the washers pushed on firmly on the inside. The eyes should sit on the front of the head, centred over the muzzle position below. If you are embroidering the eyes instead, mark their positions with pins and embroider them after the head is finished.

• Round 29: (sc in next 3 sts, dec) x 6. [24]
• Round 30: (sc in next 2 sts, dec) x 6. [18]

Stuff the head firmly now, shaping it into a soft round ball with your hands. Add extra stuffing to the cheeks so the face is full and friendly, and make sure the neck area (Round 16) is well stuffed so the head does not wobble.

• Round 31: (sc in next st, dec) x 6. [12]
• Round 32: dec x 6. [6]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread the tail through the front loops of the last 6 stitches, pull tight to close the hole, and weave the tail into the head.

Muzzle — the cream oval

With color A (cream) and a 3.5 mm hook, chain 7.

• Round 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, 3 sc in last ch, then working along the other side of the chain, sc in next 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch. [14]
• Round 2: inc, sc in next 4 sts, inc x 3, sc in next 4 sts, inc x 2. [20]
• Round 3: sc in next st, inc, sc in next 5 sts, (sc in next st, inc) x 3, sc in next 5 sts, (sc in next st, inc) x 2. [26]
• Round 4: sc in each st around. [26]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the muzzle very lightly with a pinch of stuffing, then pin it to the front of the head, centred under the eyes, with its top edge at about Round 23 and its bottom edge at about Round 27. Sew it on with small neat stitches all the way around, tucking the edge under slightly as you go so no stuffing escapes.

Nose and mouth

With color C (dark brown) yarn and a tapestry needle, embroider a small wide nose on the top half of the muzzle: two short horizontal stitches side by side, filled in with small vertical stitches until they form a soft brown bar about half an inch wide. Then embroider a short vertical line down from the centre of the nose, and two small curved lines branching out to each side, like a tiny upside-down Y. Keep the stitches neat and even, and knot the yarn on the inside of the muzzle.

Horns (make 2)

With color B (tan) and a 3.5 mm hook, start with a magic ring.

• Round 1: 4 sc into the ring. [4]
• Round 2: (sc in next st, inc) x 2. [6]
• Round 3: sc in each st around. [6]
• Round 4: (sc in next 2 sts, inc) x 2. [8]
• Round 5: sc in each st around. [8]
• Round 6: (sc in next 3 sts, inc) x 2. [10]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the horns very lightly with a pinch of stuffing, just enough to hold their shape, then pinch each horn gently into a slight curve with your fingers. Sew the horns to the top of the head, at about Round 28, about 3 in apart, with the curve pointing slightly backward and outward.

Ears (make 2)

With color A (cream) and a 3.5 mm hook, start with a magic ring.

• Round 1: 6 sc into the ring. [6]
• Round 2: inc in each st around. [12]
• Round 3: (sc in next st, inc) x 6. [18]
• Rounds 4–6: sc in each st around. [18]
• Round 7: (sc in next st, dec) x 6. [12]
• Round 8: sc in each st around. [12]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff the ears. Flatten each ear and fold the top edge slightly inward, then sew the ears to the sides of the head, at about Round 26, just below and outside the horns, so they flop down beside the face. The ears should hang down about 1.5 in, framing the muzzle.

Patches (make 2)

With color B (tan) and a 3.5 mm hook, chain 7.

• Round 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, 3 sc in last ch, then working along the other side of the chain, sc in next 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch. [14]
• Round 2: inc, sc in next 4 sts, inc x 3, sc in next 4 sts, inc x 2. [20]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Make two patches, and sew one onto the side of the body and one onto the back, placing them wherever they look best. The patches are flat, so they sit neatly against the body: pin them in place first, check them from the front, then sew them on with small neat stitches around the edge.

Legs (make 4)

With color A (cream) and a 3.5 mm hook, start with a magic ring.

• Round 1: 6 sc into the ring. [6]
• Round 2: inc in each st around. [12]
• Rounds 3–7: sc in each st around. [12]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the legs firmly in the lower half and lightly in the top. Sew the four legs to the bottom of the body, at about Round 5, spaced evenly around the base, with the feet pointing down. The goat should stand on all four legs without tipping: check her on a flat surface and adjust the leg positions until she stands steadily.

Tail

With color A (cream) and a 3.5 mm hook, chain 6. Work sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across, then fasten off, leaving a long tail. Sew the little tail to the back of the body, at about Round 9, pointing slightly upward. A tiny tail is all a goat needs, and it adds a lot of charm.

Finishing the goat

Weave in all ends, hiding them inside the body. Check the goat from the front: the eyes should be level, the muzzle centred, the horns even, and the ears symmetrical. Stand the goat on a flat surface and check that she stands upright without leaning.

Finishing touches

Take five unhurried minutes here: it is the difference between homemade and handmade.

Shape the head. Cup the head in your hands and gently roll it to smooth out any lumps in the stuffing. Push the cheeks out slightly with your thumbs so the face looks full and friendly, and pinch the top of the head into a soft round shape. A well-shaped head is what makes a plush look professional.

Three cute variations to try next

Once you have made one goat, the same body construction makes a whole farmyard of friends. Same shaping, three personalities:

1. Baby goat (kid). Work the pattern with a 3.0 mm hook and DK-weight yarn, following the small size. The goat comes out about 6 in tall, which is the perfect size for small hands and a pram toy. Use embroidered eyes instead of safety eyes, and sew every piece on extra firmly.
2. Goat with a daisy. Crochet a tiny five-petal flower in white or yellow, and sew it behind one ear, just above the floppy ear. A goat with a daisy tells a story, and children love it.
3. Black and white goat. Work the body in black yarn with cream patches instead of cream with tan patches, and keep the horns in tan. A black and white goat looks striking on a shelf, and the colour swap is easy enough for a confident beginner.

Troubleshooting tips

• Your stuffing shows through the stitches. Your stitches are too loose. Go down half a hook size, or switch to a tighter tension. You should not be able to see white stuffing between cream stitches.
• The head wobbles on the neck. The neck area is under-stuffed. Add more stuffing to Rounds 15–17, packing it firmly so the head sits solidly on the body.
• The goat will not stand up. The legs are sewn unevenly or too close together. Reposition them evenly around the base of the body, at about Round 5, with the feet pointing straight down.
• The horns look too big. You stuffed them too firmly, or worked too many rounds. Stuff the horns very lightly, just enough to hold their shape, and stop after Round 6 as written.
• The muzzle looks lopsided. You sewed it on without pinning it first. Always pin the muzzle in place and check it from the front before you sew: a millimetre off at the top becomes very visible at the bottom.
• The eyes are uneven. One eye is a round higher or a stitch further out than the other. Count the stitches between the eyes carefully, and use pins to mark both eye positions before you push the safety eyes through.

Frequently asked questions

Is this free crochet goat pattern really free?

Yes, the complete pattern above is free, no email signup, no PDF purchase required.

What skill level is this goat pattern?

Confident beginner. If you can single crochet, increase, and decrease, you have every skill this pattern needs. The body and head are worked as one piece, which makes the sewing much easier.

How long does it take to make the goat?

About three hours for the standard size: roughly one hour for the body and head, one hour for the horns, ears, legs, and patches, and one hour for sewing, stuffing, and finishing. Your second goat will be faster.

How much yarn do I need?

About 170 yds of cream aran-weight yarn for the standard goat, plus about 40 yds of tan for the patches and horns. One 100 g ball of aran yarn (about 200 yds) is enough for one goat.

Can I make this goat for a baby?

Yes, with two changes: embroider the eyes with black yarn instead of using safety eyes, and sew every piece on extra firmly.

Can I wash the finished goat?

Yes. Hand wash in cool water, squeeze out the water without wringing, and reshape the head and muzzle while the goat is damp. Lay flat to dry.

Can I sell the finished goats I make?

Yes! You may sell finished goats made from this pattern in small batches (craft fairs, markets, gifts). Please credit Little Loop Finds as the pattern designer with a link back to this page.

More free patterns to try

If this goat was fun, keep the hook moving. The highland cow crochet pattern is the next farm friend to try, the free crochet chicken pattern is another quick barnyard make, the crochet bunny plush uses the same small-size construction, and the crochet grocery bag holder pattern is a useful farmhouse make for the kitchen.